This is 2020. Travel restrictions will be lifted in France today (December 15th), and so it seemed the entire population said, “I’ll be home for Christmas.” A curfew will be put in place though it won’t apply on December 24th, and public gatherings are taboo. Sadly, bars, cafés, and restaurants remain closed. However all is not lost even if we can’t go to restaurants: They can come to us. With gourmet take-out options, top chefs are taking the pressure off tired home cooks and helping you make your end-of-year feasts sublime. All in strict compliance with health protocols, bien sûr. Here are some recommendations.
Le Menu des Chefs x Petrossian
“The concept unites top chefs and artisans sharing recipes based on Petrossian products,” explains CEO Mikael Petrossian. “We deliver or order via click’n collect – just reheat, and enjoy!”
Petrossian and the chefs have compiled complete festive menus (from €75) and super-somm Estelle Touzet has chosen wines, champagnes, and sakés from Petrossian’s cellars.
In Paris, try such delights at Rostang Père et Filles chez Dessirier and Restaurant Dupin. Chef Tomy Gousset is working with Petrossian at his three restaurants: the 1* Tomy & Co. Hugo & Co, and Marso & Co. Last but not least, the artisan butcher to the stars, Hugo Desnoyer suggests his sublime veal tartare/caviar Ossetra Royal d’Hugo Desnoyer (€67), which is also available from the boutique at 28 rue du Docteur Blanche in the 16th.
How about the Menu Plateau Telé? (Priced at €134 for 2 people.) Begin with Le Crabcake by Rostang Père et Filles. Follow with Le Croque-Caviar from Renaud Ramamourty (Petrossian head chef) and Tomy Gousset’s signature tapioca, avocado cream and caviar dessert. Then to clean the palate – dig into some truffled brie. Of course you’ll order extra caviar; it’s Christmas!
Truffle x Dessert
Olivier Chavanne, the contemporary cheese maker in Toulouse, and François Daubinet, the Parisian pastry chef at Fauchon, combine talent with “Truffle.” Read, an intriguing hybrid creation linking artisan cheese and pastry, with tuber melanosporum notes. Daubinet and Chavanne’s mouthwatering “dessert” is showcased at Maison Petrossian, who recently launched “La Truffe par Petrossian.”
Available December 1st, 2020 – February 28, 2021 at Petrossian boutiques (see above) and Deux Chavanne, Toulouse.
Chef Constant’s “Plats de Fête” until 4th January can be delivered or collected from 139, rue Saint-Dominique in the 7th. For four people, enjoy dishes like Gratin of Scallops Bonne-Femme (€60); Flaky pastry “Pithiviers” of game, sauce Grand Veneur, celery root mousseline (€100); Truffled Brie (€40); and CC Chocolate Tart (€48). Perfect paired with Champagne Gimonnet & Fils 1er cru Blanc de Blanc Brut.
Tel: 01 47 53 73 74
Ralph’s At Home
Ralph Lauren’s storied American restaurant in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés means enjoying lunch or dinner at Ralph’s, delivered or take away. The menu lists starters, mains and desserts: butternut squash soup, traditional Caesar salad, “signature” burgers, lobster rolls, irresistible desserts including New York style cheesecake. Match with Brooklyn lager or Pinot Noir from Francis Ford Coppola 2016. Monday – Saturday 11:30 am to 3:30 pm and 6:30 pm to 9:30 pm. Call and collect: 01 44 77 76 00 or click n’ collect on zenchef.com/ralphs
Located in a handsome 19th-century townhouse in the 8th, Le Clarence is an elegant destination with two Michelin stars. Star chef Christophe Pelé plans a gourmet Christmas at your home this year. His multi-choice menu includes Saint-Jacques starter (€20) and Tourte Piegeon/foie gras, wild mushrooms/pommes dauphine (€75), which you can mop up with Ten Belles bread, before finishing with the Bûche Clarence (€28). Head sommelier Gaëtan Lacoste suggests a number of options from €17-€600, like white and red Clarendelle, Pessac-Léognan Château Haut-Brion 2001 or La Clarté Haut-Brion 2014.
Need help? Call the somm (Tel: 01 82 82 10 10); Monsieur Lacoste will be delighted to advise. Click and collect here.
From the cheffe’s left bank restaurant, order Michelin-starred cuisine to serve at home. Try pre-dinner gougères for your aperitif, then fabulous foie gras confit with Timut pepper / pear and apple chutney, ginger and celery. Follow with a plump, juicy scallop in its shell – just pop in the oven for a few minutes (pumpkin and mushroom garnish and jus with walnut parsley). The main’s blue lobster, sweetbread, poultry, salsify Vol au Vent, drizzled with Arbois yellow wine sauce. Then ewe’s cheese, quince paste and caramelized nuts. (Did we mention the house baked bread and Basque butter spiked with Espelette pepper?) For dessert, the Kirk Whittle combines Dominican Republic Tainori chocolate coriander and chicory. Menu from €190 (two people). Pick up at 4 rue d’Assas in the 6th.
Click and collect here.
Here’s some good news. Cuisine by three Michelin-starred chef Christian Le Squer can be delivered. The menu at Le Cinq includes Ballotine of duck foie gras, stuffed capon, and Grand Veneur venison haunch. Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve, they offer a feast to eat at home. Think lobster in its shell /caviar grains, foie gras pebbles with truffle shavings, infused chicken with truffle and steamed roots, fine old Comté tart and Tulakalum chocolate/ grilled buckwheat. Find original ideas in the Christmas pop-up boutique from the likes of Restaurant Director/Sommelier Eric Beaumard, Head Pastry Chef Michael Bartocetti, Simon Zanoni (Le George) and Artistic Director Jeff Leatham. Open 7/7 until January 10th.
Maison Lenôtre x Camille Ortoli
You’re going to adore the “Signature 2021” trio of bobble hat galettes, a collaboration between Creative Director Guy Krenzer, with designer Camille Ortoli. In three gourmet recipes: chocolate, candied citrus fruits, and roasted dried fruits. Krenzer and Camille were inspired by snowy Alsace Christmases. Limited Edition (€59) available from 2, January, 2021. Olivier Poussier, named World Best Somm 2000, suggests aromatic Muscat de Cap Corse 2018. And chefs Jean-Christophe Jeanson (MOF pâtisserie), Fabrice Brunet (MOF cuisine), Fabrice Gendrier (MOF cuisine) and Loïc Antoine (MOF charcuterie) have composed a mouthwatering collection of exceptional meals – based on the bounty of Alsace – order from the boutiques or for delivery.
Georges and Bertrand Menut’s Addresses
These convivial canteens are cooking take-away dishes to order. Check out:
- Chez Georges, bistro, an institution since 1926
- Le Ballon des Ternes, Art Nouveau brasserie
- Trattoria di Bellagio, the delights of simple authentic Italian cuisine
- The Bœuf Maillot, the “Beefeater Bistro”
- La Grande Cascade, iconic Michelin-star pavillon in the Bois de Boulogne
Chef Frédéric Robert suggests lobster salad, the “every day I’m trufflin’ ” signature macaroni, black truffle chunks, foie gras, celery, gratin with parmesan. Order – 9am – 6pm – collect 6pm – 8.15pm.
Online menus accessible here.
Thibaut Spiwak’s creative cuisine – confinement 2.0 – Christmas dishes can be collected from 80, Boulevard des Batignolles in the 17th. Or delivered. Menu Anona @Home (24 / 32 euros), Menu Petit Bouillon (12 euros / entrée + plat), Menu Brunch (25 / 30 euros). Don’t forget the wicked, kickass cocktails such as Daisy’s Secret…
Tel: 01 84 79 0115
Extra-fresh seasonal French caviar produced and marketed exclusively in December just a few days after fishing. Its ripening is very light; the firm grains roll perfectly in-mouth, with elegant notes of fresh buttery hazelnuts. Baerii Christmas caviar €78 – 30g, Osciètre Christmas caviar €97- 30g.
A bit kitsch – but it’s that time of the year – all proceeds of the 100% made in France merch goes towards restoration projects at the Elysée Palace. Vive La France!
Polichinelle Restaurant – Gift Vouchers?
“We know we can’t welcome you now – that’s why our vouchers (€32-€110) are good for one year”, says famous pastry chef Christophe Michalak at Polichinelle.
Dior Chez Moi?
What to eat – easy – but what to wear? I want everything from Maria Grazia Chiuri’s wonderfully woke, confinement-inspired collection.
With restaurants not reopening before January 20, take-out’s part of our “uberized” lifestyle. So, in solidarity, bakers, butchers, market gardeners, fishmongers, restaurateurs, wine merchants, chocolate makers, grocers, winegrowers, cheese makers, confectioners, pastry chefs and even caterers join together, collectively promoting their e-commerce stores. This brand new platform was created by Rémi Ohayon who trained alongside Jean-Paul Jeunet (** Michelin), then Bernard Loiseau, and was destined for a promising culinary career until he tuned into web marketing – founding his first agency in 1996. In 2011, Ohayon won the prestigious MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) in communication and website creation…. The rest, as they say…..
And finally, Andre Terrail and chef Yannick Franques (MOF) invite you to their duck fest.
Want to be inspired by more French foodie experiences and enjoy classic French food, wine and recipes? Head to our sister website, Taste of France, here.
Lead photo credit : Portrait de Mikael Petrossian dans son restaurant ‡ Paris le 17/01/2020 Photo Jean-Christophe Marmara / Le Figaro