Maison Plisson: A New Food Concept Store in the Marais

Maison Plisson: A New Food Concept Store in the Marais
Delphine Plisson’s backstory begins in regional France, then ESG Business School Paris, followed by a year in New York and LA to learn English. “I had a fascination with food stores such as Dean & Deluca and Joan’s on Third in LA and wondered why there was nothing like them in France”. Returning to France, Plisson was hired by Yves Saint Laurent to present his fur collection. “A beautiful man”, she sighs. A post with Agnes b followed, then a managerial position with the Group Maje, Claudie Pierlot, and Sandro. But the call of the culinary never stopped, and, “when I reached 40 I decided to change my life, I believe if you can dream it you can do it”. Two hundred meetings with banks and backers later, Delphine was on a French road trip checking out farmers and producers to supply the crumbling old bicycle depot she was about to transform into Maison Plisson. “My concept is to bring together the best French food artisans all in one place”, she explains. We look around and from the cinders of the bike shed Maison Plisson has risen, with Prouvé style décor by architects Julie Lafortune and Nicolas André. “In the 60-seat restaurant all the food comes from within a 200 mile radius of Paris”. We’re open 7/7 and there’s hot croissants at 7:30 in the morning, fresh muesli, detox juices and L’Arbre à Café coffee by Hippolyte Courty. I love products and want to share them with my customers, so we have lots of tastings; the last one was Crème Chantilly”. The adjacent two-level market, with a well-stocked basement wine cellar, showcases artisans and exceptional products from Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) butcher Didier Massot (Wagyu Beef at 280€ kilo0; seasonal cheeses by Ludovic Galfione; and breads and pastries by Benôit Castel. “We deliver locally for a small fee (3€) and it’s free to expectant mothers. There’s nothing worse than having to carry parcels when you’re pregnant, non?” Bruno Doucet brings out a delicious dish of signature vanilla rice pudding topped with caramelized dried fruits, his grandmother’s recipe (7€). “You can fall in love with a dish”, insists Delphine. “I used to take my Agnes b clients for lunch at La Régalade, Bruno Doucet’s restaurant, on rue Saint Honoré. I always ordered rice pudding, it became addictive. One day I wrote Bruno a note with the bill, saying “I’m in love with you, and your rice pudding, adding my phone number. He called me, and, not long afterwards, we moved in together! Although they are no longer an item, Delphine says, “he still brings rice pudding, it’s supposed to be for the children, but I always eat it. I don’t trust anyone that doesn’t love food!” I ask Delphine if there will be more Maison Plissons? “Why not”, she replies. “I could see this concept working in London, New York, Dubai. We’ve got a great concept that will translate very well”. Maison Plisson, 93 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 Paris. Average spend 20-45€ for meals. Open in August. No telephone. No reservations. Check out their photos on Instagram.          

Lead photo credit : La Maison Plisson © JP BALTEL

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Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !