Jane Bertch on her Must-Read Book, The French Ingredient

If you’ve ever considered moving to Paris and think it’s going to be a life filled with wine and roses or, OK, paté, you’re ever so wrong. You need to run, not walk, and buy Jane Bertch’s book, The French Ingredient.

Jane has written an extraordinary memoir about opening La Cuisine, a cooking school in Paris. But it’s so much more. Rather, it’s a manual for people who want to understand more about Parisians, their culture and mores. And what makes them tick, from food and wine to family, education and clothes.

I was predisposed to like the book because I’ve known Jane since she arrived in Paris. I’ve always loved her and admired her smarts and tenacity. I was thrilled to have an excuse to review her book, and have a reason to catch up with her after way too long.

However, I wasn’t prepared to LOVE the book. The French Ingredient is beautifully written and educational. I simultaneously laughed and cried and couldn’t wait to order copies for friends.

Backtrack: It wasn’t Jane’s dream to live in Paris nor to open a cooking school. Born and raised in Chicago, she moved to London in 1999 to work for an American bank. Paris wasn’t on her wish list because when she visited after graduating from high school, she found the French rude and arrogant. She swore she’d never come back.

After Jane was transferred to Paris in 2006, she was subjected to baptism by fire. She had to work harder than her other colleagues, learn excellent French, and gain their respect. She had a couple of mentors who helped, and her banking job served as a crash course into French culture.

However, a true entrepreneur, Jane wanted to move on from banking. She opened La Cuisine, a school for English-speaking tourists who want to learn about French food by working in the kitchen and taking food tours. This year, the school will welcome 10-12,000 students, 15% of whom are repeat visitors wanting to introduce their friends and family to the experience. According to Jane, 2024 is the year of “revenge travel” for those who want to make up for lost time during the pandemic.

Jane is quick to say she’s not a chef; rather she’s a business woman who wanted to share a bit of French food with English-speaking visitors.

However, there have been times when La Cuisine could have closed, following strikes, demonstrations, terrorist attacks and Icelandic volcanoes that shut down air travel. Jane’s ability to pivot — while navigating the French bureaucracy, real estate issues, and cultural differences — is inspiring.

Covid’s arrival forced La Cuisine to close down without clients or cashflow. It catapulted Jane into writing because she “wanted to figure out what was going on and had time then to devote to the project.” What’s apparent now is that Jane is a wonderful ambassador and now truly loves Paris. But it’s been a journey.

The French Ingredient is such a welcome relief from unrealistic accounts of moving to the City of Light, immediately being embraced by the French, and thinking you understand them. (Many “moving to Paris” blogs and books are guilty of doing this.)

Contrasted with others who love the Netflix series Emily in Paris, I saw red after watching a few episodes. The scenery is mouthwatering and wonderful but Emily’s dealings with her work colleagues are totally unrealistic. Not to mention her over-the-top wardrobe housed in her tiny, walk-up apartment.

I couldn’t resist asking Jane whether or not she plans to write a second book. Jane was absolute in saying no but then said, “Never say never.” I hope she reconsiders and writes another one.

Purchase a copy of The French Ingredient at your favorite independent bookstore, like the Red Wheelbarrow or Shakespeare & Company in Paris. The book is also available through online shops like Bookshop.org.