Belleville Open Studios: A Rare Opportunity to Meet Artists in Paris

Belleville is an artistic neighborhood in the northeast of Paris, known for its modern and classical art, good food, and amazing views of the city from its hilly streets. The neighborhood is quite international, as many artists are expats who have come to make a name for themselves in the French art scene. Belleville is home to every kind of artwork imaginable, from painting and photography to engraving and sculpture. However, the artworks and artists are usually hidden behind closed doors, tucked away in alleys, villas, or studios — except during four days in May. 

Every year, the Ateliers d’Artistes de Belleville (AAB), an association which supports artists in the area, hosts a “Portes Ouvertes,” or Open Studios. This year marked the 36th Open Studios, and the event is always free with a recommended donation of 1€. The goal of this four-day event is to meet artists firsthand, as well as learn about their media, what inspires them, and their views on the modern art world. As a bonus, artists sell their pieces at studio prices. Over 150 artists in Belleville participate in this event, enthusiastically opening their studios and sometimes homes to the public to display their hard work.  

Belleville has seen many changes over the years, as it was first officially established as a village in the late 1700s and has been active since the Middle Ages. Major changes came during the last four decades of the 1900s; during this time, the city of Paris planned to demolish Belleville and completely rebuild it, as it had fallen into disrepair in the 1950s and 60s. However, the Belleville artists fought to keep the neighborhood as it was. The city decided to renovate the neighborhood by adding green spaces and rehabilitating old apartment buildings, as well as building a few social housing complexes. Some of the artists who fought to save Belleville still live and work there today. 

Visiting the Open Studios took me across four arrondissements: the 10th, 11th, 19th, and 20th. Artists were spread out across these areas, from the hills of the 19th and 20th (with amazing views of the Eiffel Tower) to the more centralized 10th and 11th. My favorite pieces included practical creations, such as postcards, blank cards, and bookmarks, as well as unique pieces like artwork created out of abandoned boat hulls. One tip if you plan to buy artwork during the Open Studios: bring cash, as many artists don’t have card readers. In addition, practice a bit of French if you don’t already speak the language, since some artists don’t speak English.

Stepping into each studio was a burst of color and life, a stark contrast to the normally muted colors of Paris. Every artist I visited was eager to discuss their art, and many were open to visitors taking photos of their creations. Painter Anne Ramaré, who was proud of having lived in Belleville for over 30 years, showed me old pictures of her tiny house tucked in a rose-scented courtyard. She was one of many artists who had fought for Belleville when the city planned to demolish it, and she was happy to share a bit about the history of Belleville and photos of what the neighborhood used to look like before it was renovated. She still lives in the house today, though it’s been refurbished and modernized along with the surrounding buildings. 

Another painter, Charlotte Barrault, explained that she’d been working in Belleville for seven years. During the Open Studios, she shared a studio and loft space with Émilie Potey (photographer) and Eva Romain (painter), which was accessible only through a covered passageway, through a courtyard lined with picnic benches and plants, and up a narrow, hazardous set of stairs.

Every artist I met was enthusiastic about participating in the Open Studios, no matter if they were alone or sharing a space, how many pieces they had on display, or how many years they’d been in Belleville. This event was a welcome and rare opportunity to meet and appreciate the artists who have kept the spirit of Belleville alive and thriving.