Wines for Thanksgiving

I always enjoy reading Art Buchwald’s annual Thanksgiving column, in which he explains our national holiday to the French. It is, he rightly says, “the one day when Americans eat better than the French do.” But I notice that in describing how it all began, he avoids mentioning any wines to go with the meal.

He is right to do so. Turkey, after all, is not one of those meats that is automatically associated with any particular wine. While we would associate roast beef with a fine Bordeaux, and game perhaps with a mature Burgundy, neither would go as well with turkey. The Burgundy would be too rich and flavorful, and the Bordeaux too nuanced, to complement turkey’s mild flavors well.

In a way, our national Thanksgiving meal is a celebration of plenty, available to nearly everyone. It’s appropriate that wines that go with it best are neither overly expensive or hard to find. The Pilgrims would probably approve. (They would probably also serve ale or beer.)

Having said that, let me break that rule immediately. Thanksgiving is usually a family occasion, not a restaurant splurge. The fact that you don’t have to serve a particularly fine wine with the meal doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t do so. Let’s say that the family has gotten together from a long distance. Or, your Great Grandmother will be there. You get the idea. There is no better way to make a dining occasion even more memorable than serving a fine wine, whether you have to or not. If uncorking your one bottle of Chateau Mouton Rothschild helps make the occasion a celebration, by all means do so. You’ll remember the year you served it, and be very glad that you did.

Turkey is, however, a mild meat, and generally a softer red wine would match it. Here, you have a fairly broad choice. Take a merlot varietal wine, such as a young wine from the Pomerol region of Bordeaux (Chateau La Fleur St. Georges 1998, $20), or possibly a young St. Emilion (Chateau Fombrauge 1998, $22). More reasonable choices would be the quality generics that Barton & Guestier offer, in the $10 range. You might also discover a wine from the Fronsac or Cotes de Bourg region that would go well and be reasonably priced. Consult your retailer, and let us know.

If you can find them at reasonable cost, a magnum of wine would be a better choice. This two bottle size always seems more festive. You might find a Thieuley “Reserve” Bordeaux for $30. My local wine retailer on the Eastern Shore of Maryland offers magnums of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Villages 1998 for $14, a wonderful buy for a soft red wine. Just chill it for a few hours before the dinner.

Burgundy wines pose similar challenges. You don’t need a great one, but a young wine that is beginning to develop might complement the feast. Look to a younger Cotes de Nuit Villages, or a Hauts Cotes de Beaune. There should be a good selection at your wine retail store, and these wines are in the $15-$20 range. We sometimes look to a red Chateauneuf du Pape, and 1998 is a fine year. Look for example, for a Domaine Grand Veneur, a Bousquet des Papes or a Clos des Papes, all in the $20-$25 range. Again, a magnum of these wines might be appropriate.

These red wine choices would be particularly appropriate if your turkey is accompanied by sausage or chestnut stuffing, with traditional side dishes. The tastes would complement each other well.

This is not to rule white wines out. You could serve a nonvintage brut champagne, domestic or imported. Champagne would work very well, and a light one would be welcome, given the general heaviness of the meal and dessert. Another possibility would be an Alsatian white wine, perhaps a Riesling or a Gewurztraminer. Hugel, Adam, Trimbach, or Albrecht are fine producers, and unless you get into the limited production wines, you should stay in the $12-$15 per bottle range. These wines would go particularly well if you used an oyster stuffing with the turkey.

I wouldn’t rule out rose wines, either. Just make sure that the wine is not too sweet. Some of these wines can be cloying. A Chateau d’Acqueria Tavel Rose at $11 might be a good choice.

I said at the outset that the Pilgrims wouldn’t be drinking wine, but ale or beer would be their choice (and probably was, at the first Thanksgiving). If you are feeling patriotic, try Samuel Adams, perhaps a Pale Ale. I am fond of Pilsner Urquell from the Czech Republic, the original Pilsner, with a smooth, clean flavor, and no aftertaste. One of the light French beers, such as Kronenbourg, would go equally well if that is your choice.

My assumption has been that you would be serving turkey. If not, make your wine choices accordingly. A crown roast of pork would go well with a Loire Valley white wine. Try marinating it with Vouvray wine, then roast it with apples or prunes and some thyme, adding a bit more wine from time to time to pan brown it. Ask your wine retailer about Vouvray wines. Unless you get into limited production wines, $10 should buy a nice bottle. But be careful. They tend to be rather sweet.

With baked ham, a medium-dry white wine of character would be a good choice. Here, I would suggest an Alsatian pinot gris, such as an Albrecht, Pierre Sparr or an Adam. You should be safely within the $12 range with these wines.

For desserts, a heavier, fortified wine such as port would be a good choice, or perhaps a glass of Sauternes, especially if your dessert is not overly sweet. If you are serving a cheese course with apple slices and nuts, then a glass of port or a medium-dry sherry would be a good choice. And don’t forget to save a glass of wine to toast the cook when the meal is over. It won’t get you out of helping with the dishes, but it might get you invited back next year.

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