Why I Love Cassis

  When I think about the tiny fishing village of Cassis, I think of the sun. I think too of the picturesque harbor, the deep narrow inlets called calanques, carved over time from white limestone. I think of a wonderful hotel on a hillside with a multi-tiered swimming pool. I think of heady wines stemming from the traditions over 2000 years old. I think about tiny boats coming in and out of a wonderfully inviting harbor. I think about the best bouillabaise I’ve ever eaten, and Moules à la Mariniere made to perfection and eaten on a tiny terrace beside the sea. In five glorious days, I learned that not all towns have to be upscale, tourist-driven in a modern sense, yacht-filled and expensive to offer a great time. Cassis, just East of Marseilles, is the find of the southern French coast. It is the place for the perfect holiday. We arrived without reservations–which is not wise–but were lucky enough to find lodging in the modern 25-room Hôtel Le Royal Cottage. Here in a bright, sparkling-clean comfortable room with a balcony over the pool, we could see the rugged shore between Marseilles and the Riviera. Below, the pool sparkled in the sunlight and emitted a wonderful sound as water gently cascaded from one lever to another. On the days when we used the pool, a bar offered cooling drinks to match the refreshing waters. Breakfast was at the hotel. Our other meals were usually taken in the tiny harbor, where we found restaurants for all tastes and budgets. It was only five or six minutes on foot to the harbor. Here we arranged to take an excursion into the calanques along the rocky coast. They are like fiords and were formed by rivers flowing to the sea. These rivers were submerged centuries ago when the Mediterranean began to rise. The inlets are great camping and picnicking sites enjoyed by hikers, rock climbers and hidden beach seekers. Along the calanques, one discovers ancient quarries that provided limestone for sites such as the Suez Canal and the base of the Statue of liberty. Even the lighthouses iof Cassis and Marseilles were crafted from this stone. But not only stone was taken from this rugged coast. Here people harvested scented herbs: rosemary and thyme. A trip into the calanques can be arranged from Cassis’ harbor. The cost is about $15-20 US, with the trip lasting an hour or two. You can visit 3, 5 or 8 calanques on tiny wooden boats. Cassis itself was rebuilt on the ruins of the original port, where Greek fishermen plied their trade. The history of this area goes back 27,000 years, with relics of its Gallo-Roman and Ligurian past uncovered from time to time. During the 14th century, the Seigneurie de Roquefort ruled the community. Pope Gregory took refuge here in the nearby calanque Port-Miou in 1376. Spanish invaders pillaged the town, while in 1720 the area underwent a plague. The English took it from Napoleon in 1813. Today it is a stop on the Marseilles-Toulon rail line. You’ll immediately be enchanted by the small port, lined with cafes, restaurants and shaded terraces. If they’re crowded, walk into the village away from the port. There’s something special waiting. Try a Cassis wine. Red, white or rosé are all tasty and famous. You can enhance the enjoyment if you sip the wine while enjoying mussels (Moules à la Mariniere). Here you’ll savor the flavor of Herbes de Provence, onion, parsley, white wine and lemon. But don’t leave without trying bouillabaisse. The term comes from ‘boil and press’. Some call it a soup but it’s a main dish and extremely filling. It’s based on cooking together four or five varieties of local fish. It was a fisherman’s meal and never contained expensive seafood such as lobster. Common crabs are also used. The color of the dish depends on the fish selected. Each place makes it their own special way. Since I’m no cooking expert, I’ll say only that the recipe can be found in many cookbooks and on the web. Follow the instructions carefully. The recipe I recommend serves eight and can be found here. If you’re really adept at complicated dishes, try it for yourself. But it may be a better idea to eat your first bouillabaisse in a restaurant. For me, the secret is to have your first one in Cassis. Try to be there on market day. I plan my trips around market days. In Cassis, there’s a market every Wednesday and Friday. Their wine festival is in early September. For more information about this wonderful town, contact the Office de Tourisme at Place Baragnon or call (33) 4 42 01 71 17/fax (33) 4 42 01 28 31. You can find Hôtel le Royal Cottage on the web. Their rooms are about 130 Euros for a double, which is a bargain. Breakfast is extra or you can eat in town. There are other small hotels but none as nice as Le Royal Cottage. They are at 6 ave du 11 novembre, 13260 Cassis.