What makes Ze so great

Why is Ze so great?  Let me count the ways.

Every once in a while, a restaurant comes along that is so consistantly great, while still changing its menu with inventive regularity – that you find yourself going back time and again.  In the early 1990’s, it was the Bistro Du Dome that was such a place, although it was more consistent than changing; a few years later it was the Bistro Cote Mer; and now it’s Ze Kitchen Galerie.  It’s probably no coincidence that all three lean heavily on their fish supplier, since that’s what made and makes, especially in the case of Ze, them sing.

But that’s not the only reason.  While I liked William Ledeuil’s cooking and menus at Les Bookinistes, it wasn’t until he moved 50 feet away that I was captivated.  

I think the quality of the experience starts with the reservation taker and door greeter.  Every resto has the capacity to have “caller ID,” but few do have it (cf La Cerisaie) and fewer still know how to capitalize on it.  One of the countless books on what makes a good business, noted that when hotel staff-members recognize you, the customer, it’s an indication of caring and it gets your visit off to a good start. No different with restaurants.  (In the spirit of disclosure, while I try to make my first visit to a new place anonymous and accept no free rides, once I’ve reviewed a place and my feelings/judgments are in print, I don’t mind being identified, as long as I continue to pay.)

Then there’s the “acceuil” which can be perfunctory or warm or resentful, but at Ze is always warm.  I recall many years ago at Boulay in New York being treated by the maitre d’ like a leper, until the person making the reservation came in and indicated that I was with him – suddenly snottiness turned into relectant acceptance.  I blamed David Boulay for the attitude conveyed by his “face” to the world and I hold William Ledeuil equally responsible for ensuring that Ze’s face is warm, welcoming and personally engaging (you feel the “how are you” is genuine and answer genuinely.) 

Then there’s the prompt offer of aperitives and prompt delivery of menus, no fussing about searching for available ones, and prompt taking of orders.  And watch M. Ledeuil.  He usually stands just outside the kitchen entry, like a midfielder able to dash back into the kitchen to show someone how something should be done, finish a dish or help out when the pressure’s high, or move slowly to the front to welcome or thank a regular diner, fix something at the bar or survey the situation.  Not one, like Passard, to avoid the kitcken, or Lalanne at La Cerisaie, to never leave it, like Dominique Bouchet, you get a sense that it’s all his domain.

Now, however, to what really makes it great – the food.  I can only imagine the hours and days of thought that went into his menu-planning before opening several years ago or the attention that goes into the product and supply ordering weekly and daily but both are integral to the place’s success.  The fish is incredibly fresh, it has to be, to prepare so much sushi-style.  And the veggies and meat are impecable.

Would that be enough?  Probably.  But then, what he does with the basic ingredients, the spices and preparations and finally the presentation are all uniquely Ledeuil.  It’s no wonder that the Generation “C,” “Le Fooding” and “Le Jeune Chef” bunch see him as a role model for breaking into the next level of French cuisine.  

And all the while, that great smile, handsome face and winning manner.  If Hollywood needed a prototypical chef for the movies – he’d be my nomination.

Why is Ze so great?  I have counted the ways, but I suspect underpinning each is one overwhelming element – M. Ledeuil.

My favorites:

Ze Kitchen Galerie

4, rue des Grands Augustins, 6th (Metro: Saint Michel)

T: 01 44 32 00 32

Closed Sundays.

A la carte 30 €.

La Cerisaie

70, Boulevard Edgar Quinet, 14th (Metro : Montparnasse-Bienvenue)

T : 01.43.20.98.98

Closed Saturdays and Sundays

A la carte 25-30 €.

Dominique Bouchet
11 rue Treilhard, 8th (Metro : St Augustin or Miromesnil)

T : 01 45 61 09 46

Closed weekends

A la carte about 60 €
 

©2006 John A. Talbott