The Essence of Burgundy

“I rejoiced in Burgundy. How can I describe it? For centuries, every language has been strained to define its beauty…” Evelyn Waugh, Brideshead Revisited What lies behind Burgundy’s irresistible allure – and the seduction of its wines? The answer is not readily apparent. Despite its visual warmth, Burgundy, and particularly the Cote D’Or, remains a mystery. Burgundy is a world of nooks and crannies that can confuse even the greatest connoisseur. First, there are the tongue-twisting names: Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, Puligny-Montrachet, Vosne-Romanée, Meursault… Then there are the profusion of wines – never-ending variations and qualities and names which come from 4500 tiny domains with an average size of 5 hectares (12+ acres). What is the best way to understand the essence of Burgundy? Does the soul of Burgundy lie in the inherent nature of the terroir – that special combination of climate, soil and landscape that forms the unique character of a vineyard? Or does Burgundy’s peculiar uniqueness come from humans, the families that have proudly worked here for centuries, handing down their winemaking secrets generation after generation? Burgundy has been renowned for centuries as an excellent place to grow wine. Its special signature comes from three factors. First, the vineyards, situated on slopes of altitudes between 250-300 meters, face due east to get full early morning sun. Second, the soil is very stony; the stones not only drain the water away when it rains but they also help to reflect the heat. Finally, the soil is very chalky. The Burgundy terroir nurtures two different type of grapes: Chardonnay for white wine and Pinot Noir for red. The latter grape, notoriously fickle and difficult to grow, flourishes on Burgundy’s well drained, chalky slopes. A complex jigsaw of land and people, Burgundy’ nature can never be totally separated from the people who cultivate it. It’s tiny vineyards are cultivated by a tangled web of families, every generation dividing the region’s treasures into tinier and tinier pieces. The reasons for Burgundy’s fragmentation are historic. During the French Revolution, the vineyards of the church and aristocracy were dismantled and sold to the middle class and to peasants. This redistribution was accelerated with the Code Napoleon introduced in 1804 that mandated that all heirs, regardless of age or sex, would share any inheritance equally between them. Burgundy winemaking is irrefutably a family business. Fathers share their secrets with their sons, who in turn hand these down to their sons. They pass on their favorite techniques: how to plant the vines, where to place them, the best way to plant and cultivate them, how to barrel and bottle the wine. But making wine is not just about technique. Families pass down something even more important: the artistry and magic of superb winemaking. In Burgundy, there is an old saying, “C’est l’homme qui fait la difference.” (“It is the man that makes the difference). © Susan Rice