The Atlantic Coast & Aquitaine

2 March 2004 by Arnie Greenberg    441  
Let’s concentrate on the coast from La Rochelle, Saintes, Cognac and Angoulême to the Phare de Cordioan, the lighthouse at the mouth of the Gironde, and St-Emilion, Bordeaux and Arcachon. The Côte d’Argent, the long stretch of coast from the Gironde to Bayonne, is special, filled with tiny villages and seaside resorts. Mimizan-Plage and Cabreton are worth a stay, as is Bordeaux, filled with treasures and a history as the crossroads of European trade.   La Rochelle is the largest yachting center on the coast, boasting a 15th century Tour de la Lanterne with a great view. There are museums, an impressive aquarium, towers on both sides of the harbor entrance, and cobbled streets filled with souvenir-seeking tourists and seaside restaurants during the summer.   La Rochelle’s rival city, Rochefort, is located south of Ile d’Oléron (connected by a causeway). Stop in Rochefort and see the Marine Museum or the extravagant home of author Pierre Loti. A side trip to Ile d’Aix by ferry will take you to a place where Napoleon was kept before being sent to St. Helena. There is even an interesting Napoleon museum filled with memorabilia.   The Romanesque church, Ste-Radegonde, at Talmont with its apse shaped like the bow of a ship is worth a visit. The town of white houses overlooks the Gironde and the houses are covered with roses in summer.   Another nearby center is the town of Cognac. Located on the Charente between Saintes, with its Arch of Germanicus (9 A.D.), and Angoulême, Cognac boasts some of the finest distilleries in the world. Otard operates in a famous château where Francois I was born.  Remy-Martin offers a train to show you around. But, my personal favorite is Hennessey. Here, one can take a tour on both sides of the river and learn how cognac is made. The visitors’ facilities are first class with films and souvenirs and a chance to taste Hennessey’s specially blended product. Look for the black lichen stains on the roofs. This, so goes the joke, is the portion of cognac that goes to heaven.   Angouleme, with ramparts overlooking the Charente, has a famous collection of cartoon prints from Asterix, Tintin, Flash Gordon and Snoopy. It, too, is worth a visit, especially with children.   South east of Angoulême and due east of Bordeaux in a sea of vineyards is the tiny town of St-Emilion. This is, by far, one of those towns you shouldn’t miss. It looks just how an old country village should look. But, there’s more to see than meets the eye. Walk to the tourist office on the upper level, gather your maps and information, and descend the narrow steps to the Place du Marché. Here, under a sun umbrella, you can eat or drink in the atmosphere of one of the most pleasant towns in France. Visit the wine merchants for a premier crus classe, or walk through the narrow streets and medieval houses. Tour the Hermit’s Cave or catacombs or climb to the top of the bell tower for a bird’s eye view. There’s parking at the east end of the village near the school.   The Aquitaine has the world’s longest beaches, the highest sand dune in Europe, and the first paintings of the history of mankind. It has a unique lighthouse, truffles, beauty and a certain joie de vivre. It has been the magnet for tourists with some of the best beaches in Europe. It is central to the history of France, often referred to as “the other south.”   Bordeaux, while located about sixty miles from the sea, is one of France’s major ports, dating back to Roman times. Give it some time. It’s sprawling and important. Perhaps the shipments of wine from Bordeaux dating back to the Hundred Years War had something to do with that. Today, the Bordeaux region encompasses almost 400,000 acres and produces about 45 million cases of wine each year. Goods from the west flow into France through Bordeaux.  Historically, this is the land of Eleanor and was once part of England. Wars were fought over it. This was the city where (Bordeaux) deputies, including Concordat, formed the Girondins, which held a majority in the Legislative Assembly during the Revolution.   Bordeaux’s main city center boasts broad avenues and tree-filled squares. Walk on the Esplanade des Quinconces to the monument of the Girondins. It commemorates those sent to the guillotine by Robespierre during the Reign of Terror. Other sites not to be missed are the massive, restored Basilique St-Michel, Museum of Fine Art at 20 Cours d’Albert and Musée d’Aquitaine with relics from pre-Roman times.   Walk along the tree-lined facades of the Quai. The mood is set by the Garonne River, and the terraces provide a great view. Two majestic buildings, the customs building and stock exchange, on Cours du Chapeau Rouge date back to the 18th century. Also located close to the water is the Classical-style Grand Theatre on the Place de la Comédie, crowned by twelve huge statues of muses and goddesses. It is one of the finest theatres in France. In the St. Andrews Cathedral, Eleanor of Aquitaine married the future Louis VII. Her dowry consisted of practically all of southwestern France. She took it all back when she was divorced and later married the man who became Henry II of England. Before you head south, visit some of the great wine producing chateaux like Chateau Margaux, Cheval Blanc and Latour in nearby Pouillac in the Medoc. The Bordeaux Tourist Office can tell you about available wine tours.   West of Bordeaux is the resort town of Arcachon with a fine sea front walkway, the Boulevard de la Mer. Just south of the basin is the Dune du Pilat and other large sand dunes used as gun emplacements by the Germans during WWII. It is a difficult ascent on foot, but the view is worth the effort. Below, the Côte d’Argent, the world’s longest sand beach and home of the first European surfers, awaits you. Resorts dot the coast while the inland is almost entirely forested. This under-populated area was once swampland. By 1970, the forest became a nature park. At the southern end you’ll find Mont-de-Marsan, a French bullfighting center where a less bloody version of bullfighting is very popular.   Biarritz was once a whaling port, but Napoleon III came here for a holiday in 1854 and made the rest just history. Here, the place to be seen is the sumptuous Hotel du Palais, but Biarritz has lost…
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By Arnie Greenberg