That Smells Good!

If you’re looking for a Valentine present for a loved one (or just a beautiful one), stop right here. Le Studio des Parfums (a partner of La Belle Ecole ) offers what is sure to be the most whimsical, original and memory-producing gift he or she will receive in a long long time. After all, smell can take power over memory more than any other sense. What better than a signature perfume or cologne to speak of romance, love, passion and all things nice? With this atelier you construct your own scent from scratch (or roughly 150 raw essences, both natural and synthetic), following a detailed and exhaustive procedure mapped out by your own personal nez, or ‘nose’, someone who is qualified to smell – professionally. Sophie Soussan, who is at the heart of this operation, has worked as a nez in magical Grasse, Southern France, which most regard as the world headquarters of lovely smelling Eaux de colognes, eaux de toilettes, eaux de parfums, and extraits de parfums (yes, there is a difference between them all). Upon entering her Studio one is immediately struck with the technical nature of perfume making, regarding the measuring testers and the to-the-milliliter indications, but at the same time the historical and nostalgic quality of the process (especially on this private level) can not be denied. After a brief historical background involving Catherine de Medici and her appreciation for scented things, namely gloves and kerchiefs, which she commissioned in order to cover up the general stench that emanated from all walks of life back then, one is presented with the orgue, or table at which the magic happens. Paris, it has been said, resembled somewhat of an open sewer way back when. Perfume was a welcome invention, and probably more of a necessity then, as opposed to its ‘luxe’ connotations today. Any oversights or misrepresentations made here with regard to history are acknowledged here and now, as all of my historical knowledge pertaining to Old France is derived from the classic novel Perfume by Patrick Suskind, the engrossing bestseller translated from German which SHOULD be committed to film one of these years, part of which takes place in Paris and part in the storybook city of Grasse. The book is so descriptive I got lost in it, twice, and was one of the secondary reasons that drew me to France. Hearing Sophie’s personal story of becoming familiar with this age-old industry (including her fortuitous meeting with a famous nez at an established perfume house in Grasse) and how her concept for Le Studio des Parfums grew into a reality made me remember the book, namely because it also speaks of the life-consuming passion of scent (albeit very differently – the novel is a murder mystery/thriller!). All the same there was something old-fashioned feeling about the idea of making my own cologne, in France no less. But soon it was to work, and at once it becomes very tangible, real work – this is what they mean when they say ‘hands on’. You’ll need all the parts of your face for this one, scrutinizing the markings on your testers, smelling (of course), and your mouth for describing what you do or don’t like (after a while you begin to wonder yourself). You’ll also need your hands for pouring (try not to shake – these potent and dizzying essences are expensive) and your brain to try and make sense of all the stimuli around you. And trust me – the nose puts in overtime here. Parfumerie does get pretty technical – you gotta stay alert! Constructing a scent is a scientific art, with its color-coded pyramid graphs that show the fond, coeur and tête of the fragrance (that’s foundation, heart and head). Much thought must be given to each step, as each of these facets supply a different role within the structure of the fragrance. This was a truly eye-opening experience, mainly in how I began to be able to discern separate smells within the ever-evolving cocktail of ingredients at my disposal, and much like with wine, I started to glimpse (but only glimpse) how the finished piece comes together. If I got lost (which I did and so will you), Sophie was there to help along with her expert nez. For my actual fragrance, I think I did pretty well; I discovered Bergamot as a scent, which is usually something I like to drink in Earl Grey tea. I also knew that I wanted hints of other ingredients, and at the same time Sophie introduced me to some of the most wonderful smells my two fair nostrils have ever happened upon. A brief sampling that doesn’t even do justice to the range would include: Geranium, Lichen, Patchouli, Ocean, Grapefruit, Pine something (yuck) and something else called Essence of Beaver (loosely translated, and strangely enough, not horrid-smelling, which, just having looked on Dictionary.com can be more precisely described as Castoreum: “A peculiar bitter orange-brown substance, with strong, penetrating odor, found in two sacs between the anus and external genitals of the beaver; castor; — used in medicine as an antispasmodic, and by perfumers.”). So if you’re looking for a gift with a personal touch, it doesn’t get much more so than at Le Studio des Parfums . Any option is conceivable: you can make your own or try your hand at capturing the perfect scent for that perfect person in your life; you can buy a session and send her or him over to experience it firsthand; or you can come together. Don’t miss the special %20 discount offer for two for Valentine’s Day, and be sure to mention you heard about this gem from Bonjour Paris! Studio des Parfums 08.71.77.56.32…