Terraces Buzz

4 June 2008 by Margaret Kemp    370  
Terraces Buzz
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
Tong Yen has no terrace, but Sarko’s dining there tonight with Chirac, so if it’s raining get over there and you’ll probably see more celebs than you’ve had Asian dinners. Meanwhile back on the terraces, Laurent’s terrace, located at the back of a pretty pink 19th century town-house, has a hip, happening lunch-time scene. The owners would not like it if names were dropped, but there’s American politicians, French cabinet ministers, a top British style journalist, Russian super-models and a transvestite cabaret artist in his signature blue suit (clue).. Apparently it’s always like this, and at night they return with their sig. others. The terrace is pretty, protected and welcoming, the lunch menu at 80€ has 5 starters, 6 mains, perfect cheese (by Marie Quatrehomme) and 4 desserts including a souffle᷄. Laurent’s Cannes born super-chef Alain Pegouret (ex- Christian Constant, Joel Robuchon) has a passionate gleam in his eye. Talks about cooking like some men talk about Carla Bruni-Sarkozy. “I am slowly cooking my John Dory in a leetle butter and sweating root vegetables”, he explains. Gosh! He’s so good to look at, no wonder his dishes taste so delicious. Pegouret, although he speaks no English, spends as much time as he can in the USA. “I love that country”, he says. “And I love the food, I come back with lots of ideas. Like ze corn I serve wiz my roast pigeon, superb!” Pegouret is self-effacing and, like his fabulous lobster, needs to come out of his shell and be recognised as the talent he is. If you want informal, say, a nice cup of tea or a delicious meal at any time of the day Le Pavillon Elysee Lenotre has it all. The terrace is a great spot for people watching, the boutique stuffed with gourmet utensils, cook-books, chocolates, macarons and wine. Book for cookery lessons, nibble a Paris-Pekin or Paris-Cannes, enjoy an assiette of macarons with Lenotre ice creams and sorbets. And talking ice-cream Le Bristol has an old fashioned trolley waiting for you in the middle of their garden (more of a park really). Patissier Laurent Jeannin proposes the usual vanilla, chocolate and coffee, but also mango, green apple with coriander and pink grapefruit with champagne. There’s also Nutella and strawberry Tagada, it’s €5 a pop, but darling this is Le Bristol, a palace hotel, and rumour has it that Sarko, who lives in his own palace across the street, pops in for his fave chocolate, when Carla’s not looking. Les Ombres at the Musee du Quai Branly has a terrific rooftop terrace, a river runs along it! And the cuisine by Arno Busquet is exciting and precise. The views of the Eiffel Tower are mind-blowing, day or night. Michel Troisgros is chef at the elegant Hospes Lancaster, the zen terrace is sheltered so whatever the weather, eat outside in peace and quiet. Troisgros’ cuisine is exquisite and his Sunday lunch at 85€ includes a flute of champagne. The left-bank Le Telegraph was once a telephone exchange, then a super-hip canteen, then it went kosher- hip and now the beautiful Art Nouveau listed building is open every day for lunch, the tree-shaded terrace is beautiful, definitely worth a visit. Chez Julien is a picture-postcard 1900’s brasserie of which dreams are made. Recently acquired by Thierry Costes and Alex Chapon, what’s not to like sitting on the terrace opposite Ile Saint Louis with a carafe of Bordeaux or Burgundy? Cafe des Lettres is probably where Serge Gainsbourg spent time, it’s in the same rue as his house, which becomes a museum, in homage, in the future. New owners have a Palais des Thes menu of exotic teas, patisserie, a good place to do your Sudoku, make new best friends on the gorgeous terrace. Address Book: Laurent 41 avenue Gabriel, 8th (Metro: Champs- Elysees- Clemenceau) T: 01 42 25 00 39 www.le-laurent.com Shut Sat lunch – Sunday Menus : 75€ 150€ A La Carte about 200€ + wine Le Pavillon Elysees Lenotre, 10 avenue des Champs Elysees, 8th (Metro :Champs-Elysees-Clemenceau) T : 01 42 65 85 10 www.lenotre.fr Prices depend on your hunger and thirst From 15€ til-the-sky’s-the-limit Open in August The Bristol, 112 rue du Faubourg Saint Honore, 8th (Metro : Concorde) T : 01 53 43 43 42 www.hotel-bristol.com Les Ombres, 27 Quai Branly, 7th (Metro : Bir-Hakeim) T : 01 47 53 68 00 www.lesombres-restaurant.com Lunch 37€ + A La Carte Dinner Tasting Menu 95€ + A La Carte The Hospes Lancaster 7 rue de Berri, 7th (Metro: Georges V) T: 01 40 76 40 18 www.hotel-lancaster.fr Le Telegraphe, 41 rue de Lille, 7th (Metro : rue de Bac) T : 01 58 62 10 08 Open daily for Lunch 24€50 A La Carte 60-80€ Chez Julien, I rue du Pont Louis Philippe 4th (Metro : Pont Marie) T : 01 42 78 31 64 Average Spend 30-50€ Cafe des Lettres 53 rue Vermeuil, 4th (Metro : rue de Bac) T : 01 45 44 14 69 Tong Yen, 1bis rue Jean Mermoz, 8th (Metro : Franklin D roosevelt) T: 01 42 25 04 23 Open 7/7 Shut mid-July, Mid-August And also Le Saut du Loup 107 rue de Rivoli, 1st (Metro: Tuileries) T : 01 42 25 49 55 www.lesautduloup.com The…
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By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !