Skate with Lemon, Butter and Caper Sauce

Though a relatively inexpensive fish, skate is offered at high prices in restaurants. American chefs and diners are now becoming aware of this delicious fish, although it’s been very popular in France for many years. It is said that the popularization of skate (also known as ray fish) to the United States can be traced back to the famous late chef, Gilbert Le Coze. In 1972, brother and sister Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze, from Brittany, opened Le Bernardin restaurant in Paris. They served only fish, and became quite popular with the French, as well as with visiting Americans. Inspired by this success, they opened Le Bernardin in New York in 1986. In no time, it became a four-star restaurant. (www.le-bernardin.com). Chef Le Coze introduced “aile de raie” to the American palates, and it is still on their menu today. Skate is the bargain of bargains. However, while a steal at the market, the attraction has been slow to move to the West. Most of the skate available is “by-catch,” which means that the fisherman accidentally caught it and sells it at a low price. Skate is found in waters worldwide. In the U.S. the primary source is the waters off New England, but they can be found off the Pacific coast as well. It is an unusual looking steel-gray fish, and is related to the shark.Only the wings are edible, and a thin layer of cartilage separates the two sections but there are no bones. The meat is lean, delicate and sweet (due to its diet of clams and mussels). The flesh should be pearly white. It is available both frozen and fresh and is sold as “wings”. Skate is very versatile. It can be poached, steamed, pan-fried, broiled and grilled. Just be sure not to overcook it because it can become tough. This week’s “Cooking Without a Fuss” offers an easy to make recipe for skate with a delicious lemon, butter and caper sauce. Aile de raie aux capresSkate with Lemon, Butter and Caper Sauce For 4 personsCooking time: 25 minutes 4 skate wings (about 1 1/2 to 2 lbs.)salt, to taste6 tbsp. vinegar1/2 cup butter3 tbsp. capers (drained)3 tbsp. lemon juice1/2 cup parsley, finely chopped Wash the skate and put in a large pot. Cover with cold water and add the salt and the vinegar. Bring gently to a boil. Leave for 10 minutes in barely simmering water. While the skate is cooking, melt the butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the lemon juice and the capers. Cook for 5 minutes. Remove from heat, and add the parsley. Drain the skate. Remove the skin from both sides (if not already skinned). Arrange the skate on four plates. Spoon sauce over the fish and serve immediately. Et voila!  April Paute moved to France over 10 years ago with her husband, Jean Michel, and 2 Siamese cats. Armed with only a dictionary and hand signals, she took on the challenge of requesting the local boucher decapitate a chicken for her. After living in Paris and Antibes, April & co. have settled in Toulouse, where she draws inspiration