Savoring Summer Wines

Summer wines are like summer reading. You wouldn’t read “Crime and Punishment” on the beach, and you wouldn’t enjoy a Chateau Latour there either. It’s a time to relax and enjoy yourself, soak up some heat and sunshine, and plan your outdoor meals with some refreshing wines to match. It’s also a time to recuperate financially from any splurging on wine purchases. When you are having an elaborate dinner in the other seasons, it’s hard to keep the wine costs reasonable these days. The wines I enjoy for the summer shouldn’t exceed $10-$12 a bottle tops. Most cost even less, and all are good. None benefit from long aging, and most would suffer from it. Last night, for example, it hit 90 degrees Fahrenheit. We barbecued some pork ribs. A nice rose wine seemed in order. Now, the best rose wines (except for a Ste. Michelle, which either is no longer made, or isn’t carried locally) are all French, and you have a fine choice. The best known are Tavel, from Provence. They are rather full-bodied and stand up well. An alternative would be a Loire Valley rose, say a Sauvion Chateau de Beugnon, which is made in a lighter, drier style. We had a Kacher selection, Domaine des Corbillieres, and it was delicious. It was $7.95. The royalty of summer wines are, of course, Beaujolais wines. They are red wines, but are an exception to the usual rule for red wines, and benefit from being rather chilled. There are nine different Crus (including Regnie, the latest one), in addition to simple Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages. They range from light and fruity tasting (Fleurie, Chiroubles) to moderately full (Mouln A Vent). My favorite is Chiroubles, which seems to go with most meat courses. If you want to have an assortment of cheeses, you might try a somewhat fuller wine, say Julienas or Moulin A Vent. I have never been disappointed with Georges Duboeuf. His quality is excellent. You might also try a Brouilly de la Chaize for a quality estate bottled Beaujolais. All of these wines range from $6.95 to $12.95. With fish or crabs, you’ll want a nice white wine. Here are some choices. We greatly enjoy Marquis de Goulaine Muscadet Sur Lie. It is flavorful and stands up well. Other Muscadet wines from the Loire Valley region include the Chateau de Cleray and Sauvion’s “La Nobleraie.” Each is in the $6.50-$10 range. Another choice might be a flavorful wine from Alsace, say Hugel’s Gentil or Riesling. Gewurztraminer is spicier and can be more costly. You could also have a Sauvion Vouvray from the Loire Valley, which tends to be a fuller wine, not as dry. From Burgundy, the St. Veran commune wine has been bottled by the owner of the illustrious Domaine de la Romanee Conti, Aubert de Villaine. His fine St. Veran wine, like that of Georges Duboeuf, is an inexpensive treat. Another Burgundy commune wine that should be better known is Macon Lugny, perhaps a “Les Charmes.” We enjoyed a fine Georges Duboeuf Macon Villages Domaine Lenoir the other night with turbot. The wine set me back $6.95. Of course, since it’s you, why not spring for some champagne? Imported will kill the budget, but a Korbel or Ste. Michelle costs just $8.50. They go well with most dinners, and even better with dessert in the warm weather. Or you might choose a California champagne (or “sparkling wines” for purists) with French paternity, such as Mumm’s, Chandon and Domaine Carneros Brut by Taittinger. They are all in the $14 range. For a creative change of pace, consider recycling that inexpensive bottle of red Rhone wine that you were going to serve with Cassoulet last winter, but never got around to it. It just might make a terrific Sangria. Cut it half and half with soda water (lemon/lime flavored), and add more citrus accents, a lime or orange peel. Squeeze in the fruit juice. Add sugar to taste, perhaps half a cup. Swirl around with lots of ice cubes. You’ll have a very refreshing and inexpensive summer drink. Save those expensive wines for the fall. Now is the time for flavor and fun. And please share your own favorites with us. We’ll never tell how little they really cost! If you enjoyed this article, you’ll love our ongoing discussion of French Food and Wine! Bill Shepard learned to love the wines of France when he served as Consul General there. You can read more about his life as a consul in Can the U.S. Embassy Help in a Crisis? Copyright (c) Paris New Media, LLC