Places You Shouldn’t Miss in France

  Have you ever heard of Rocamadour? Most non-French visitors don’t know of it but it happens to be the second most visited place in France. Now I know that many of people are “off France” these days but I have to say if you feel that way, you’re missing so much and proving nothing. Consider Rocamadour, in the Quercy area. While the main street is a little touristy and the town is basically a religious site, Rocamadour is a photographer’s dream. Just a view of this tiny town hanging from the side of a cliff is worth the trip. The drive is not difficult and getting there is full of rewards. It is east of the highway going from Limoges to Toulouse and once you’re there you can climb to the top or just meander, take pictures or buy souvenirs. Here is where St. Amadour once preached and is perhaps one of the most unusual sights in central France. The best place for that prize-winning shot is from the route via Hospitalet. A picture from the elevated viewpoint across the gorge will be memorable. Rocamadour is well known and the people are friendly. You can find nice souvenirs of this religious site, but remember, in France one says “Bonjour” first. A pleasant, comfortable, no-frills place to stay near Rocamadour is Auberge de la Garenne on D247 North West of the town. Nearby there are caves and medieval villages to visit and at Cahors where the north-south highway meets the Lot River, you’ll find the famous 14th century fortified bridge. This was an important place during the Hundred Year’s War. There’s also a fable concerning the bridge builder and the devil. It seems the engineer was running out of material to finish the bridge fortification, and the city was being threatened by the English. England controlled much of this area for many years. The frustrated builder made a pact with the devil, who would supply all required material in return for the engineer’s soul. When it was almost completed, the engineer asked for holy water to cement the last stones in place. The devil was not able to get into the church so the contract was annulled. But after the bridge and turrets were complete, the devil kept throwing rocks from the top onto the defending soldiers. The English invaders looked down from the hills above the town. When they saw this formidable fortress bridge, they retreated. The engineer had the devil cemented into one of the towers. There’s an image of the devil there today; see if you can find it when you visit. And since you are on the Lot river, I recommend a drive east to picturesque St. Cirque-Lapopie and on to Figeac. This market town is worth the time to get there. You’ll find adequate accommodations and reasonable restaurants but the draw to me was the small square where they recreated the ebony-colored Rosetta Stone. It takes the whole square and you can walk on it. Now there’s a photograph. The stone is important to Figeac, the birthplace of the archeologist Champollion who deciphered the stone. It proves once again that great people come from out of the way places. Once you’re in the area, I suggest a short drive to Albi, the birthplace of artist Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec. You can see the house where he was born, and visit the Lautrec Museum next to the tourist office. Here you’ll find originals of Lautrec’s work, which we’ve all seen reproduced. There’s something warming about a session with the drawings and paintings. Here too are good restaurants and a hotel that I personally recommend.–the family run Grand Hotel d’Orleans across from the railway station. Dinner there will be rewarding. Try the Gaillac wines of the area. They include fruity, dry white wines as well as sweet aromatic sweet wines. Finally, when you leave Albi, head south through Cordes-sur-Ciel. Between here and the main highway at Toulouse you’ll be able to sample the best Roquefort I know. From here it’s only a short hop to the fortress city of Carcassonne. The fortress city never fell but I will say, your children will enjoy it and I know you have never seen anything like it. It looks like one of those castles we see in movies but it is more exciting when you’re there. There are many fables about ancient Carcassonne. Under siege, at one point, the inhabitants filled the body of a pig with grain and threw it over the outer wall. The invading army, seeing this waste of food, figured that the villagers had enough to live on for a long time so they lifted the siege. Carcassonne never fell. It did fall into neglect, but was rebuilt by the famous architect Violet-le-Duc, thus saved for visitors interested in authentic historical sites. It’s certainly worth a visit. True, it is touristy now but it’s too late to see it as it once was. Time has changed France as it has changed all countries. We must learn to use our imaginations to see the invading armies, especially as we walk on the ramparts. Photographers will still enjoy it, and lunch of ‘cassoulet’ in the main square under the trees is something you’ll long remember. It may not be dietetic but this is the grandfather of all casseroles. It’s best to visit between May and September. There’s something to see or taste on any route in France. The question now is, do I want to continue to deride the French, refuse to eat their cheeses and pour their wines down the drain? Or do I want one of the most satisfying holidays a gourmand or a photographer can ask for? France was once America’s closest ally. People and governmental attitudes change but the fact remains, there is so much culture and quality in all corners of France. Miss it and you’ll be the loser. It’s your choice.