Trips to Lyon are often snatched on the way to or from somewhere else. My first two there were no exceptions, and were as quick and savory as a whiff of salade Lyonnaise. For my initial trip I got on the RER at Paris’ Gare de Lyon for the rapid three-hour train ride to the city. I was picked up and taken to the Hermes silk factory where their artisans create those beautiful lush silk scarves coveted throughout the world. My only touch with the real Lyon was a lunch in Vieux Lyon and a quick tour through ancient cobblestone streets that once teemed with silk workers whose fabrics were exported throughout the world. Tantalizing, but not enough. I vowed to return.
The next time I arrived after touring the French Alps. I was lucky enough to be there for one of Lyons’ many outdoor flea markets. The quality was as good as Paris’, but, most noticeably, the prices were so much better. I picked up some hotel silver steak knives and a small pitcher at bargain prices. Hmmm. Interesting, but my time was limited. I visited Les Halles de Lyon, their central market, and tried some of their local cheeses and sausages as I browsed and whetted my appetite for a lunch of ravioli filled with foie gras at Pierre Orsi restaurant. The ravioli was a reminder that this area was a duchy of Italy for much of its history. In fact, reminders of the Italian past are found in the architecture throughout Vieux Lyon.
After lunch, I visited the Musée des Tissus to admire the delicate silks that are an integral part of Lyon’s history. By the 16th century 12,000 people were employed in Lyon’s silk industry, growing to 200,000 by 1881. Unfortunately silk manufacturing here decreased after 1950 due to synthetics and cheaper imports. However, the buildings that housed many of the workers still exist, and their spirit lingers. As does the aura of great cuisine, so it was time to eat again. This time I found a local bouchon (literally “cork”), a Lyonnais restaurant presided over by a woman. The hearty food is served family-style in a festive atmosphere.
Finally, last spring I arrived for an extended stay in this city with 20 centuries of history located where the Saone and Rhone Rivers meet. Patrick Dunne, owner of New Orleans’ Lucullus, a culinary antiques shop, had told me he had a home in Lyon and that he did a lot of buying there.
Hearing what I’d already suspected from an antiques’ expert made me even more anxious to explore this city. I checked into the Cour des Loges, four Renaissance buildings dating from the 14th through the 17th centuries. French hoteliers Jocelyne and Jean-Louis Sibuet have cleverly turned the buildings into a chic hotel by playing contemporary furnishings and art off against the ancient architecture. The hotel is not only stunning (and with an excellent restaurant), but is particularly handy since it is on a pedestrian-only, UNESCO-protected street in Vieux Lyon.
Now it was time for some serious searching. In Vieux Lyon it’s a must to visit Quartier Auguste Comte. This quarter even publishes a pamphlet with the names of the over 150 antique stores and specialty shops to facilitate shopping. The narrow streets are close together, so whipping from one side of the street to another is simple. Dunne likes rue Auguste Comte specially and I found some reasonable, beautiful silk scarves there. I also found a 1930s puppet in a dusty toy store crammed full of treasures and bought an Art Nouveau letter opener and faience dish at Agora on rue des Remparts d’Ainay. There are so many choices that it’s impossible to pick a favorite.
Besides this area, Lyon also has markets on different times and days throughout the city. There are arts and crafts markets on Sunday mornings in the Vieux Lyon section and a flea market at 1 rue du Canal (Villeurbanne) Sundays 6 a.m.-1 p.m.; Thursday and Saturday, 8 a.m. to noon.
Away from the city center is “La Cite des Antiquaires,” 117 Boulevard Stalingrad (
www.cite-antiquaires.fr) that has many upscale dealers. This mall replaced a run-down flea market.
Even after three visits to Lyon, I still don’t feel as if I’ve even begun. There are so many museums I didn’t see, although I did enjoy Musee Gadagne, the puppet museum, since it was near my hotel. Not only museums, there are so many shops, bouchons, brasseries, glasses of Rhone and Beaujolais wine to taste. The list goes on. I must go back.
Bonjour Paris is pleased to have Kathy Bryant as a contributor.
Trips to Lyon are often snatched on the way to or from somewhere else. My first two there were no exceptions, and were as quick and savory as a whiff of salade Lyonnaise. For my initial trip I got on the RER at Paris’ Gare de Lyon for the rapid three-hour train ride to the city. I was picked up and taken to the Hermes silk factory where their artisans create those beautiful lush silk scarves coveted throughout the world. My only touch with the real Lyon was a lunch in Vieux Lyon and a quick tour through ancient cobblestone streets that once teemed with silk workers whose fabrics were exported throughout the world. Tantalizing, but not enough. I vowed to return.
The next time I arrived after touring the French Alps. I was lucky enough to be there for one of Lyons’ many outdoor flea markets. The quality was as good as Paris’, but, most noticeably, the prices were so much better. I picked up some hotel silver steak knives and a small pitcher at bargain prices. Hmmm. Interesting, but my time was limited. I visited Les Halles de Lyon, their central market, and tried some of their local cheeses and sausages as I browsed and whetted my appetite for a lunch of ravioli filled with foie gras at Pierre Orsi restaurant. The ravioli was a reminder that this area was a duchy of Italy for much of its history. In fact, reminders of the Italian past are found in the architecture throughout Vieux Lyon.
After lunch, I visited the Musée des Tissus to admire the delicate silks that are an integral part of Lyon’s history. By the 16th century 12,000 people were employed in Lyon’s silk industry, growing to 200,000 by 1881. Unfortunately silk manufacturing here decreased after 1950 due to synthetics and cheaper imports. However, the buildings that housed many of the workers still exist, and their spirit lingers. As does the aura of great cuisine, so it was time to eat again. This time I found a local bouchon (literally “cork”), a Lyonnais restaurant presided over by a woman. The hearty food is served family-style in a festive atmosphere.
Finally, last spring I arrived for an extended stay in this city with 20 centuries of history located where the Saone and Rhone Rivers meet. Patrick Dunne, owner of New Orleans’ Lucullus, a culinary antiques shop, had told me he had a home in Lyon and that he did a lot of buying there.
Hearing what I’d already suspected from an antiques’ expert made me even more anxious to explore this city. I checked into the Cour des Loges, four Renaissance buildings dating from the 14th through the 17th centuries. French hoteliers Jocelyne and Jean-Louis Sibuet have cleverly turned the buildings into a chic hotel by playing contemporary furnishings and art off against the ancient architecture. The hotel is not only stunning (and with an excellent restaurant), but is particularly handy since it is on a pedestrian-only, UNESCO-protected street in Vieux Lyon.
Now it was time for some serious searching. In Vieux Lyon it’s a must to visit Quartier Auguste Comte. This quarter even publishes a pamphlet with the names of the over 150 antique stores and specialty shops to facilitate shopping. The narrow streets are close together, so whipping from one side of the street to another is simple. Dunne likes rue Auguste Comte specially and I found some reasonable, beautiful silk scarves there. I also found a 1930s puppet in a dusty toy store crammed full of treasures and bought an Art Nouveau letter opener and faience dish at Agora on rue des Remparts d’Ainay. There are so many choices that it’s impossible to pick a favorite.
Besides this area, Lyon also has markets on different times and days throughout the city. There are arts and crafts markets on Sunday mornings in the Vieux Lyon section and a flea market at 1 rue du Canal (Villeurbanne) Sundays 6 a.m.-1 p.m.; Thursday and Saturday, 8 a.m. to noon.
Away from the city center is “La Cite des Antiquaires,” 117 Boulevard Stalingrad (www.cite-antiquaires.fr) that has many upscale dealers. This mall replaced a run-down flea market.
Even after three visits to Lyon, I still don’t feel as if I’ve even begun. There are so many museums I didn’t see, although I did enjoy Musee Gadagne, the puppet museum, since it was near my hotel. Not only museums, there are so many shops, bouchons, brasseries, glasses of Rhone and Beaujolais wine to taste. The list goes on. I must go back.
Bonjour Paris is pleased to have Kathy Bryant as a contributor.
