Happily Homesick

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Some mornings I wake up and can’t believe that I am living in Paris. On other mornings I wake up and I cannot believe I am living in Paris. Today I had one of those other mornings that started with a bad case of homesickness in one of its various disguises. Instead of enjoying another lazy day exploring the city I woke up craving pancakes, extra crispy bacon and a cold glass of milk. None of which are readily available in their true state for at least 1,000 miles. Don’t even ask me how many kilometers. By noon my stomach had added chocolate chip cookies, real ones, to its list of demands. Staring into my fridge and opening and closing my kitchen cabinets was getting me nowhere. Since feeling sorry for myself is only entertaining for a half an hour at best, I eventually got around to doing something about my pathetic situation.   First, I called up my expat friends: an Aussie, a Canadian, a Brit and a Southern Cali gal, to find out what they did when they found themselves in similar situations. And I must apologize to them again for mentioning a painful topic. Still their first suggestion about where I should go was rather rude. I do understand though as some of them were suffering from a serious lack of crumpets and barbecued salmon withdraw. Sadly, there is nothing in town to assuage those cravings. However, with a stiff upper lip my British friend did offer one tidbit. She mentioned that on some weekends she dashes off to the nearest train station, picks up the enormous Sunday edition of the Herald Tribune and spends the rest of the day at home, curled up in her favorite chair with a good pot of tea and the paper. Not a bad idea but my Californian friend has taken a more defensive approach.   While her typical Southern Cali glow makes it pretty obvious that she doesn’t have a drop of Latin American blood in her, she has become the reining Queen of the Rio Grande—the eastern tributary, at least. She has mastered her beloved Tex-Mex favorites and demands that visiting friends and family from the US refill her cupboard with all the necessary ingredients. So when I asked her for her favorite Mexican resto in Paris, without a false sense of modesty she proudly said, “Chez Moi!”   I admire her sense of initiative and was inspired to try and make some chocolate chip cookies. I started where any other homesick American in Paris might—by logging on to download a good recipe, but then I had to search for another site to convert the measurements into metric units. That was only the start because my little experiment also meant calling around town to figure out where in this city of lights a girl can get some Nestlé’s chips. The end result … looked like something that had splattered on the sidewalk after a very long drop. Luckily, I have never been one to judge by looks alone because they tasted pretty darn good.   However I did start looking around for places that serve a little bit of home away from home. This is not at all an affront to the croissants of Paris. And we all know that the just the idea of a fresh, warm baguette has launched 1,000 planes. Sometimes though, you just want to eat something familiar.   Breakfast in Americawww.breakfasti-in-america.com (in English)17, rue des Ecoles, 75005Phone: 01-43-54-50-28Métro: Cardinal Lemoine, line 10 or Jussieu, lines 7 and 10You can start and end your day here as they serve lunch, dinner and happy hour drinks like Coronas till the early morning. Check out their website for specific brunch and bar hours. And don’t forget your college ID for Happy Hour discounts.   Not only does this place give you the real diner feel in the middle of Paris, with gleaming barstools and plenty of Americana memorabilia on the walls, they also have pretty good pancakes. True, they don’t offer a glass of cold milk to wash the flapjacks down but en revanche, they understand the concept of a “bottomless cup a’ joe”.   Joe Allen Restaurantwww.joeallenparis.com/paris (in French and English)– still has prices listed in Francs or www.joeallenparis.com which requires plug-ins to view30 rue Pierre Lescot, 75001Phone: 01-42-36-70-13Métro: Les Halles,  or Etienne Marcel, line 4Dark, wood-paneled interior, Marvin Gaye and Al Green playing in the background, waiters and waitresses alike in white shirts and ties and linen napkins. Must be Joe Allen. Open since 1972 this place offers a classy alternative to the Hard Rock with a menu that includes the full range of expected entrees from hamburgers and fries to barbecued ribs with corn on the cob. Of course there’s the cheesecake with fresh strawberries and apple crumble with a scoop of vanilla to tempt you also. Sit on the terrace and people watch when the weather is nice or stop by for brunch on the weekend. While you might not melt into your seat from a feeling of overwhelming satisfactions, as the French like to say, the food is correct.   DeliKate67 rue D’ArgoutMétro: Sentier, line 3, or a short walk from Étienne Marcel, line 4 and Les HallesOpen 10 to 7 during the week and 11 to 7 on Saturday.Any place that has PBJ on the menu is OK with me. (That’s peanut butter and jelly for those of you born outside of the US of A.) Plus this homey little deli, situated on one of the side streets in the Montorgueil, neighborhood has everything else quintessentially American from TexMex to bagels, brownies to cheese cake. You can even score a handful of Oreo’s if you come on a good day. You’ve gotta love a place that where you can watch MTV while catching up on the latest gossip in Vogue over a BLT.   Bitter End20 rue St. Pierre, St. Germain en LayePhone: 01-34-51-90-09One must go a little ways outside of Paris to find the best fish and chips according to my British connection. This pub also offers a large beer selection, televised rugby matches on big screens and occasionally live music. Go for the food and stay for the fun crowd full of Brits.  
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