A friend happened to be visiting Troisgros, the 3-star Michelin pile recently transformed beyond recognition. He met Michel Troisgros and, being a bit of a name-dropper, managed to get in that he had spent quality time with Alain Ducasse, working on a book. Troisgros immediately dropped his pots and pans, invited my friend to lunch, demanded to know everything that had passed between them—more or less down to, “Does Ducasse wear his Y-fronts tucked into his vest, or loose”!
4 Avenue Clément Charbonnier, 43000 Le Puy en Velay,
T: 04 71 02 75 55. Fax: 04 71 02 18 72
Diffusion Seuil-Volumen (23€)
55 boulevard Malesherbes, 8th. (Metro: Madeleine)
T: 01 40 90 90 00
21 avenue Montaigne, 8th (Metro: Alma-Marceau or FD Roosevelt)
T: 01 53 67 64 00
Born in Britain and now based in Paris, Margaret Kemp graduated from The Cordon Bleu and spent a year working and watching in the kitchens of top chefs from Sydney, Australia via Bangkok, Hong Kong, California, New York and France. Realising she would never win the coveted 3-Michelin stars, she decided to write about the people who do, the "disciples of Escoffier."