From Smurfs to Victorian Figurines

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It’s interesting to note that this market is open every weekend, come rain or come shine, which in France is something you can rarely depend on.  Beatrice de Laigue, a kindly merchant nestled plum in the midst of the hustle and flow, explains that this fact comes out of a mixture of obligation and choice:  after a week of routing around Paris to find her ‘wares’, she must come here to make the turnaround, but she does it in happy spirits since this market has become, over the years, a defining and popular tradition in the southern part of the city.               If you find that odd, just ask the crowds.  There are of course the requisite tourists (you perhaps among them), but add to that a healthy helping of ‘regulars’ and you have quite a large bunch.  Just like in a brasserie or bar, these people amble along in a way that betrays their expert knowledge of the landscape, having come here habitually for perhaps ages.  The diversity is refreshing, as one can’t help but notice all different kinds of people mixed in with the masses; old Japanese men looking for glasses, old French women and men looking to add to their collections of just about everything, and people of all ages searching for just the right touch for their walls or houses or kitchens.               Here in France people don’t only like to collect forms and paperwork (that already being a popular hobby).  They also enjoy adding to their collections of hairbrushes, buttons, pipes, post cards, sample-size perfume bottles (adorably called flacons), antique maps/globes, and zillions of other trinkets.  That’s just it in a flea market like the one at Porte de Vanves; there is a zillion of everything, so you’re sure to find just what you’re looking for (if you can stand the crowds passing by and rummaging through the same box or table).               An example of the astounding variety comes in taking one booth or ‘stand’ into account.  Mlle. de Laigue’s, for instance, offers everything from small plastic Smurf toys to elegant busts and figurines evocative of the 19th century.  This is not to mention the multitude of coutries (Africa and Mexico to name a few) represented.  Many others mirror this, with piles of old wristwatches from all over heaped next to brand new adult comic books (a powerful art form here in France).  And the variety in price staggers as well – I bought two beautiful plates with intricate bird designs for 5 euros (for the pair!).  Two stands down there were exquisite lamps going for 400 € a piece.   Back home, I see that those plates make a real conversation piece.  I call them my Avian Bird Flu flatware.  I would venture to guess that most any treasure you dig up at Porte de Vanves will be cause for conversation.  And just in case you’re not satisfied (are you looking hard enough!?), visit the exceedingly fresh and copious fruit and vegetable market at the end of the street, around the corner!!   Marché de puces Porte de Vanves   Avenue Marc Sangnier   Open Saturday and Sunday mornings 7:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.   Metro Porte de Vanves     Copyright © Dan Heching  
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