French Wines For American Tastes

   478  
The French Embassy in Washington recently hosted the well organized 2008 French Wine Roadshow, whose purpose was to introduce some new and innovative French winemakers to the American market, and to secure importers here for their wines. Many of the wines served were, indeed, fresh and pleasant, and might find a market. However, the winemakers in several cases would have done well to bear in mind some of the characteristics of the American market, particularly as it views French wines. That market is a developing one, increasingly open to new wines that are good value. However, the lowering value of the dollar means that such wines are ever more expensive in the USA. Also, the average American buyer who likes an occasional bottle of French wine is not likely to penetrate the often arcane French system of classifications and appellations. That buyer is now more likely to seek wines as varietals, and will ask for a Chardonnay rather than a given Château, whether that wine is a blend or a varietal wine. That makes it even more difficult for a new exporter to develop market share. The exhibitor who had these issues most clearly in mind was Les Vignerons de Puisserguier (www.puisserguier.net). Their producer, Blaise Kohari, exhibited a fine series of varietal wines, specifically developed for the American market. Their Baguette label, with a colorful café scene label, is a series of six varietal wines. They offer three red wines (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah), and three white wines (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Viognier). The bottles are screwtop, although alternative bottling is possible for restaurants, when cork stoppers are desired. The labels contain on the reverse food suggestions that would go with the wine selected. Clearly, this group in the Languedoc has thought their wines and market through conscientiously. Their wines will be not only recognizable, in their attractive label format, but also they are competitively priced at $10 retail a bottle. If they are well marketed here, they should be a welcome commecial success. I tried the three white wines. The Sauvignon Blanc 2007 was a good basic wine, with a bit of a bite to it, some aging doubtless will be required. The Chardonnay was rounder and fuller, a nice wine. I liked the Viognier the best. It was a nice full wine, and nobody would believe that you paid just $10 for the bottle! Two second wines of familiar Bordeaux classified wines were offered by the Meridian Wine Connection. I was interested to taste the red Château Latour Léognan 2005, from Pessac-Léognan, the second wine of Château Carbonnieux, which was rich and a bit tannic. It was a promising wine, but I think that a second wine of the pricey white Château Carbonnieux, often served in Bordeaux with a first course, would be even more welcome here. The Manoir de Rauzan Gassies 2005, rich but tannic, was a nice find. It should age well, and at 20 years the average age of the vines, is half the age of the vines that produce the grand vin Château Rauzan Gassies, a second growth in the Médoc. The Confrérie des Domaines, which has an American importer, had a variety of interesting white wines. Their Domaine Thibault AOC Chitry white wine 2006 ($10-$12) is from a small appellation, some 70 acres near Chablis. The wine illustrated the fact that even near neighbors produce very different wines. This one was rather full and undistinguished. The Domaine Lavantureux Petit Chablis 2006 was rather harsh. Chablis has been expanding its borders, and what is now called Petit Chablis is generally not worth your time or money. I contrasted these two wines with their Domaine Garnier Chablis 2006, which was a richer wine, fermented on the lees. The distributor said that in his opinion, the 2006 Chablis vintage will be even more successful than the landmark 2005. They will be rounder wines, reflecting the fact that the region had more sunlight at the end of September in the later vintage. This may be a useful tip, given the prices of 2005 Chablis! To illustrate the point, he poured a Domaine Vrignaud 1er Cru Fourchaume 2006, a fine Chablis vinified traditionally in stainless steel. It was an excellent Chablis with just the right mineral touch. And it surely costs twice as much as the Domaines des Deux Roches 2006, a Saint Véran, that was dry and crisp and very pleasing. For value, this was the wine to choose. At about the same price, a Collovray et Terrier Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuissé 2006 was of good quality, dry and a bit acidic. (This is not to be confused with Pouilly-Fumé, which is a Loire Valley wine made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes.) I enjoyed talking with Edward Squires and Richard Evans, knowledgeable contacts for Dedicated Wines Limited, who also, with their “La Différence” portfolio, have taken the American market into account. Their prizewinning winemakers have produced some fine wines in the Pays d’Oc. I enjoyed the Grenache Blanc 2007. This varietal it was said must be picked early because it goes from ripe to overripe very quickly, with risk of losing scidity and freshness. This…
  • SUBSCRIBE
  • ALREADY SUBSCRIBED?
Previous Article About Four Dollars
Next Article Why I Love Living in France (CHAPTER 8,246)