French Cooking: Soupe de moules au safran

  Saffron has been called “edible gold.” It is a product of crocus flowers and adds a pungent and aromatic flavor to foods, as well as a beautiful yellow color. In spite of being the world’s most expensive spice, it’s still very affordable because a tiny bit goes a long way. It’s an indispensable ingredient in bouillabaisse, paella and Chartreuse liqueur. When added to regular rice while cooking, you will have a golden-colored and earthy-tasting dish. According to Greek myth, Crocus, a handsome mortal, fell in love with the gorgeous nymph, Smilax. Well, she rejected him and he turned into a beautiful purple crocus. The source of saffron is Crocus Sativus, a fall flowering plant of the iris family. Each purple crocus flower produces three stigmas, which are hand picked and then dried. It’s estimated that it takes 14,000 stigmas to produce 1 oz. of saffron threads! The high cost of saffron is due to this labor-intensive process. The red-gold threads were prized by pharaohs and kings, who considered saffron an aphrodisiac. It has been used medicinally to reduce cramps, fevers, and enlarged livers. The Greeks adored saffron and used it to dye their textiles, hair and fingernails. Saffron is cultivated in France, Italy, Greece, India and Iran. From the 16th to the 19th century, the town of Boynes, France (between Beauce and Grâtinais) was the capital of saffron. They even held a yearly “Saffron Carnival”. Buyers from all over Europe came to Boynes for their saffron stock. But the production declined in 1880 and 1881 because of very harsh winters; crocus bulbs cannot stand temperatures below 13 degrees C. In 1987 an association called the “Safraniers du Grâtinais was formed. These farmers planted 50,000 bulbs and the production of saffron was revived in the region. In 1988 the Musée du Safran opened in Boynes and is located on 21 Route de Pithiviers. I haven’t had the opportunity to visit the museum myself, but the Loire/Centre region, known as the Garden of France, is a beautiful area to visit. So if you’re in the area, stop by and see this unique museum. Saffron is available in threads (whole stigmas) and ground. The threads are the better buy—they retain their flavor longer and are stronger in taste. Crush the threads and seep them in the cooking liquid before using. The longer you seep, the stronger the flavor and color. All spices are sensitive to light, so store them in an airtight container in a dark place. I even wrap the saffron packet in foil to protect it even further. This week’s French Cooking Without a Fuss features a wonderful soup made with mussels, cream and saffron. A delightful meal for these chilly winter days. Soupe de moules au safran Mussel Soup with Saffron For 4 personsPreparation and cooking time : 30 minutes ½ bottle dry white wine 2 sprigs thyme 2 sprigs parsley 1 bay leaf 1 cup water 2 lbs. mussels (washed, scrubbed and debearded—pull off the hairs that are around the shell) ¾ tsp. saffron 2 tbsp. butter 2 leeks (use the white only, cut into slivers) 2 carrots (peeled and cut into slivers) ¾ cup heavy cream 2 egg yolks (beaten) dash Tabasco sauce (optional) salt and pepper, to taste 2 tbsp. tarragon for garnish (minced) Put the wine, bouquet garni (thyme, parsley and bay leaf tied together) and water in a large pot. Add the mussels, cover and cook over high heat until they open. Shake them occasionally. This only takes a few minutes—do not overcook. Drain them over a bowl and reserve the broth. Discard any mussels that haven’t opened. Filter the broth through a sieve. Ladle a bit of the broth into a small bowl and add the saffron and let seep. Shell the mussels. Save 12 unshelled mussels for garnishing the soup bowls. Melt the butter in a large pot and add the leeks and carrots. Cook over medium heat until tender. Add the broth and bring to a boil. Now add the saffron broth, the cream, Tabasco (if using), salt and pepper. Let bubble for about 5 minutes then reduce the heat. Take a ladle of the broth and mix into the beaten eggs that are in a bowl. Then add the egg mixture to the pot, stir well and let thicken over low heat for a few minutes. When thickened, stir in the mussels and warm them for a few minutes. Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish each with 3 unshelled mussels and sprinkle each bowl with the tarragon. Et voilà! —April Paute moved to France over 10 years ago with her husband Jean Michel and 2 Siamese cats. Armed with only a dictionary and hand signals, she took on the challenge of requesting the local boucher decapitate a chicken for her. After living in Paris and Antibes, April & co. have settled in Toulouse, where she draws inspiration from her herb garden.