French Cooking: Les Asperges

Asparagus were mentioned for the first time in the “history of plants” by Théophraste (320 B.C.)  They were described as wild, small, very green and bitter.  It is said that les asperges were introduced in France during the “gallo-romaine” époque but slowly disappeared.  In the Middle Ages they were found in the monasteries and were only used for medicinal reasons. It was the Spanish who really presented them to the culinary world. During the Renaissance they returned to France by way of Italy and became very popular throughout the country. The Sun King, Louis XIV, had a passion for asparagus and demanded that his gardener supply him with them no matter what season of the year.  Le jardinièr developed a method to force the vegetable to grow throughout the year. His secret for “force growing” was even documented in his book, “Instruction pour les fruitiers et les potagers” in 1690.  For centuries asparagus was considered a luxury and was praised by even Julius Caesar and Thomas Jefferson. Today, asparagus can be found on almost every French table when in season.  The two varieties, small thin green and the thicker white asparagus, are actually very easy to prepare.  Just remember not to overcook them. Drain them right away, otherwise they will get waterlogged and lose their flavor.  This week, I am offering three recipes for les asperges (two chilled and one hot). Les aspergesCooked asparagusFor 4 personsCooking time:  Less than 10 minutes 2 lbs.asparagus (white or green) Remove the tough ends of the asparagus stalks. Wash and scrape the stalks with a vegetable peeler or small knife).  Be careful not to break the stalks.  Tie together in a bundle and stand (tips upward) in a tall pot of salted boiling water. Cover pot and cook until tender. This should be about 5-8 minutes.   Serve with the one of the following sauces. Asperges VinaigretteFor four personsCooking and preparation time:  10 minutes 2 lbs.  cooked asparagus (chilled)1 tbsp. Dijon mustard¼ cup and 1 tsp. vegetable oil1 tbsp. olive oil1 tbsp. red wine vinegar  salt and pepper, to taste Place cooked asparagus on a platter.  Make the vinaigrette:Put mustard and vegetable oil together in a bowl and blend with a wooden spoon.  Season with salt and pepper. Add the vinegar and blend well. Add the olive oil wisk together. Serve the asparagus with the vinaigrette on the side to be drizzled on top. Asperges MimosaAsparagus with hard boiled eggsFor 4 personsCooking and preparation time:  15 minutes 2 lbs.  cooked asparagus (chilled)2 tbsp. olive oil1 tbsp. lemon juice½ tsp.  Dijon mustard½ tsp.  honey  salt and pepper, to taste2  hard boiled eggs Place the cooked asparagus on a platter.  Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs.  Finely chop each separately.  Set aside.  In a bowl, blend the oil, lemon juice, mustard, honey, salt and pepper until creamy.  Pour the marinade over the asparagus. Sprinkle the chopped egg whites and yolks on top and serve immediately. Asperges Sauce HollandaiseAsparagus with Hollandaise SauceFor 4 personsCooking and preparation time:  15 minutes 2 lbs.cooked asparagus (warm)3  egg yolks1 tsp.  Dijon mustard1 tbsp. lemon juice1 cup (1/2 lb.)  butter (melted and hot) Place the asparagus on a platter and keep warm.  In a blender or food processor whirl together the egg, mustard and lemon juice until well blended. On high speed, add the butter a few drops at a time. Then slowly increase the flow. Continue to blend until the sauce is thickened. Place the sauce in a small bowl and serve immediately with the platter of asparagus. Et voilà!