Fouquet’s Last Party

Under Louis XIV, the menus were sumptuous. The receptions and feasts were governed by a complicated ceremonial and strict protocol. The dishes which figured in the five obligatory courses may not have been as refined and sophisticated as they would become a century later, but they certainly were copious and varied. “A dinner given by Mme De le Chancelière to Louis XIV in 1656 offered the following: First course: 8 potted meat and vegetables, and 16 hot hors d’oeuvre. Second course: 8 important intermediate dishes called broths. 16 entrées of fine meat. Third course: 8 roast dishes and 16 vegetable dishes cooked in meat stock. Fourth course: 8 pâtés or cold meat and fish dishes 16 raw salads with oil, cream, or butter.Fifth course: 24 different kinds of pastries; 24 jars of raw fruits; 24 dishes of sweetmeat, preserves and jams…. 168 garnished dishes in all.” ( Montagné,1965, P. 618) Here is a small sample of what Fouquet would have served his guests at his fateful reception: Roasted meat on a spit, served with oranges and lemons (mutton, quails, capons, pheasants, rabbits, roebuck, veal, pigeons, swans, chickens, beef, smoked tongue) Pâtés : venison, ham, turkey and other meat, freshwater fish. Fricassée of turtle. Various vegetables, salads, cheeses. Desserts: Mousse tart, apple tart, cream flan, morbeque cream, green walnuts, pâté of pears, fennel in sugar, sugared almonds, and much more. Louis XIV imposed the use of forks at his court. Previously, only knives and spoons were used. Napkins were changed every two courses. Samples of this kind of menu, called the bill of fare or escriteau, can be found in the archives of major cities. Most of them are no more than accounts of the money spent on food. One wonders if all the Royals suffered from chronic indigestion, or if they knew of some magic potions to help them endure such abuse. After dinner, Fouquet’s guests strolled through the park to enjoy the cool evening. The air was filled with fragrance from lemon and bay trees and the many flowers which adorned the gardens. They must have lingered near the graceful fountains and cascades where water gushed out of shells, fishes and masks. Fouquet and the events of the day were without doubt the topic of conversations. What a feast for the eyes it must have been–not only the harmonious and soothing beauty of the magnificent park, but also the flamboyant elegance of the guests. At the time, France was the fashion center of Europe. Louis XIV liked brightly colored clothes and did not permit anyone to wear black, or dark colors. Women’s dresses were made of heavy velvet, silk or satin. They opened in the front to reveal richly decorated panels. Rows of lace edged the sleeves and collars. Men’s costumes were lavishly embellished with an exaggerated display of bows, tassels and lace. Petitcoat breeches, fashionable in mid-century, were worn tied under the knee with ribbons. The short jacket was open to display a white silk shirt whose cuffs were edged with layers of lace and ruffles. Silk stockings of all colors and high-heeled shoes decorated with a large bow completed this rather effeminate costume. Pearls, jewels and bows graced the hair of the ladies and the men wore long curly wigs, cascading over their shoulders.   Everything that night seems to have been produced by a magic wand. Walking into the park centuries later, one can’t help but evoke the echoes of the sumptuous affair which was to be Fouquet’s farewell party. References:Montagné,P.(1965). The Encyclopedia of Food, Wine & Cookery.(p.94).USA: Crown publishers,Inc. Yardwood, D.(1982).European Costume 4000 Years of Fashion.New York: Crown Publishers. Josette Del Vecchio is a French citizen residing in the United States, and is a registered nurse in both countries, specializing in psychiatry. As a daughter and wife of career military men, she has lived extensively throughout Europe, Africa, and the USA. Now retired, Ms. Del Vecchio enjoys history, writing children’s stories, watercolor and oil painting, and travelling. She keeps close ties with her native France. Copyright (c) Paris New Media, L.L.C. Bonjour Paris is pleased to have Josette Del Vecchio as a contributor.