Eating lunch on Sundays

Sundays, it’s my firm belief, should be spent in the country not in Paris.  Oh, it’s not as if all Paris is dead or dormant – the supermarkets are open until after noon, the open markets ‘til 2-3 and the flower shops forever.  And it’s not that there are no places to eat in town – I love Petrus, l’Equitable and l’Ardoise on Sundays.   But it’s outside the peripherique that one enters the real France and savors the full flavor of the country.  So, one not-so-fine, cloudy Sunday in September I found myself out on the amazing RER (amazing because despite its dirt and age, it’s remarkably efficient) to Maisons-Laffitte.  My last culinary experience there had left a bad taste in my mouth; I’d gone to Le Tastevin on the recommendation of a famous critic at the New York Times who noted that it had a terrifically reasonably priced lunch “menu” on weekends – but it turned out that she or her editor forgot the words “except on” and the meal was shockingly expensive.  However, weather and experience aside, I set out. In a surprisingly short time I was walking through the gardens, up to and around the chateau and even a bit more.  Let me confess that I’m a shameless believer in the monarchy, believing Mel Brooks’ every word when he gushed that “It’s good to be the King!” in “History of the World: Part 1.”  So I really enjoyed walking around the royal grounds, now nicely preserved and used by all citizens who live in the vicinity, and in a short while had worked up both an appetite and enthusiasm for my meal.    I’d like to say that my meal at La Plancha was better than my prior one at Le Tastevin but it was not.   Thus this essay ends by recommending one flee Paris on Sundays, for the outdoors, the scenery and the walking and gawking, but not the food, at least here.  I can, however, strongly recommend the Auberge du Chateau “Table des Blot” in Dampierre, not unfortunately on an RER line. And, if you go Sundays where Georges (Seurat) went, the Island of the Grand Jatte, the setting is again quite special and evocative, but the Café just ordinary.  However, once again one must weigh the benefit of spending Sundays outside the walls against the often mediocre food. Recently I went (on a Sunday) to Passy, which some of regard as pretty far away, and had a wonderful seafood meal at La Marée Passy.  While hardly the country, one can pretend one is at liberty by walking through the Ranelagh Gardens, dropping into the Marmottan Museum and winding up in the Bois de Boulogne. Thus my sole recommendation outside the city this week is: L’Auberge du Chateau “Table des Blot” Opposite the Chateau in Dampierre (78) T : 01.30.47.56.56 Closed Sunday night, Monday and Tuesdays Lunch menu during the week 35 €; a la carte about 50 €. But keep in mind in the city: La Marée Passy 71, ave Paul-Doumer, 16th (Metro: La Muette) T: 01.45.04.12.81 Open everyday A la carte 40-50 €. Petrus 12, place du Marechal Juin, 17th (Metro: Pereire) T: 01.43.80.15.95 Open everyday. A la carte about 50-60 € without beverages. L’Equitable 47 bis, rue Poliveau, 5th (Metro : St Marcel) T : 01.43.31.69.20 Closed Mondays Menus : 21 €, dinner 28 €. L’Ardoise 28 rue du Mont-Thabor, 1st (Metro: Concorde) T : 01.42.96.28.18 Closed Monday and Tuesday. Menu: 30 €. ©2006 John A. Talbott