Do as the natives do, flee to a French island

Some of these islands have been privately owned since World War II but have since become an easy-access exotic paradise for those fleeing mainland concrete. Up to now, the French islands have attracted 1.5 million vacationers annually to their mostly traffic-free lanes and national parks, where visitors view exotic plant species and rare birds such as peregrine falcons.
 

     To cherish such places, the French government recently announced new policies to preserve them just as they are. South of Marseille, the two Golden Islands of Ile de Porquerolles and Port-Cros will limit arrivals to 5,000 and 1,500 per day respectively. This has inspired the Spanish minister of environment to review their own policies regarding the damage mass tourism has caused to the Balearic and Canary Islands.

     As remote as these islands may appear, getting to them is easy. Ferries run frequently, as do small aircraft landing in local airports so a hop from the mainland of France takes minutes, not hours.

Corsica

     Corsica might look like a large land mass, but with a population of 272,000 people, it is the least densely populated region of France. About half the population lives in the cities of Ajaccio and Bastia; yet, the island counts 365 villages, one for everyday of the year, many of which are inhabited by fewer than 100 people. Ferry arrival points include Ajaccio, Bastia, Ile Rousse and Calvi.

     Outside its cities, the Corsican landscape is among the most dramatic in the Mediterranean, often referred to as “the scented isle,” because of its aromatic vegetation. Mountain ridges and granite peaks soar up to 8,000 feet creating a rugged terrain, tempered by wooded valleys, pine forest and cascading streams.

     Treks lead to small towns such as Corte which clings to a steep slope and villages like Calaccucia and Evisa on trails all the way to the coast at Porto, a small seaside resort. From Porto, you can visit the rock formations of Les Calanches or travel by boat to the remote Scandola Nature Reserve and the tiny fishing village of Girolata. Travel by bus from Porto to Ajaccio where you can catch a ferry to Nice, Marseille or Toulon.

Brittany’s Isles

     Ferry service from Quiberon-Port Maria in Brittany operates year-round to reach Belle Île, or Beautiful Island. Among the most popular of the islands, Belle Île appears just as you might have imagined – no highways, small cottages painted an azure blue or pink, a handful of shops and eateries. But as small as it is, there are four town centers; so consider a three-day stay.

     Le Palais, the smallest commune, most populated and the capital of Belle Île is a fortified town with the only remaining town wall from the Empire period in France.

      Sauzon, set on the western tip, might well be the most photographed and most often portrayed in paintings. Its natural harbor, pink and white houses on the quaysides and its lighthouse are famous. Colorful and full of light, Sauzon boasts an enchanting mixture of landscapes including a coastal path that follows the jagged shoreline with cliffs and caves.  

     Bangor lies at the center of Belle Île, which was, according to legend, founded in the 6th century making it the island’s oldest settlement. It traces its lineage to Irish monks who arrived in the year 500, followed by Acadians and painters who gave their names to the streets.

     Locmaria is an exceptional place because it combines the island’s highest cliffs, yet is sheltered from the westerly winds, making it a fertile farming area. Its village and 33 hamlets count 711 inhabitants in all.

     No matter which island you visit, whether you walk alongside hedgerows and low, stone walls, you trek along an entire coastline, or you pedal along a riverside, you will, in some way, become a part of the intimate landscape of a French island forever.

     Brittany’s Île de Sein is about 12 miles out to sea where a small population lives and works to fish for scallops, lobster and crayfish. You will find few tourists here, but stop for a crepe. About 15 miles from Vannes, Brittany, consider zipping off to the Île d’Arz, for a day. One of the 15 Ponant Islands scattered over the Channel and the Atlantic in the Gulf of Morbihan, it is known best for its residents of retired naval officers.

      For a slightly wilder island, consider Houat ed Hoedic. This auto-free island makes room only for the sounds of the sea. Walking and biking are gentle on the body and good for the soul. Stay for night or two, but be prepared to book early as there is only one hotel, many fishermen and delicious lobsters to be had.
Provençal Islands

     Provençe is home to the island of Îles d’Hyères whose list of famous devotees includes Tolstoy and Queen Victoria. American writer Edith Wharton’s former home, the Castel St. Clair, now houses the offices of the National Park of Port-Cros. Cobbled paths lead to the Parc St. Bernard that is planted with just about every Mediterranean flower known. The old center is perched on the slopes of Casteou hill and below lies a modern town.

     Hyères is easily accessible, by air, sea or land, since it boasts an international airport, a train station with TGV service, a bus station with many regional links, four marinas with a total of 3,150 berths and regular boat services to the Golden Isles: Porquerolles, Port-Cros and Le Levant.

     Hyères exports cut flowers and exotic plants including date palms usually found in Saudi Arabia. Also known as the Îles d’Or, walk untrammeled landscapes dotted with a rich diversity of fauna and flora. With a backdrop of wooded hills, this island’s magic is preserved in its cliffs and medieval hilltop villages. Enjoy dessert at a terraced café-brasserie in Place Massillon.

     Peaceful and quiet, country life has been well preserved here. Among its attractions are a 12th century church, old manors, 15th, 16th and 17th century windmills. Follow the well-kept coastal path that leads around the entire island and discover protected coves and magnificent views over the Gulf and a string of lush green islets. Three restaurants are opened year-round and there are furnished apartment rentals and self-catering accommodations.

      Mainland France harbors infinite appeal to visitors who roam from region to region, following their palates or their whims, but islands are memorable for their independent sense of time and place so far from modern quotidian dramas leaving visitors with long and distinct memories.