Cru Bourgeois Wines of the Medoc Region

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The Medoc region north of Bordeaux, a narrow peninsula some 50 miles long, lies between the Gironde River and the Atlantic Ocean. It is the site of probably the world’s most famous wine classification, that of 1855, which still flourishes today. That listing dominates perceptions as well, so that when wine lovers think of the Medoc, the 60 famous wines of that classification (61, including Haut Brion of the neighboring Graves) are usually what comes to mind. And yet, those famous wines do not constitute the entire Medoc wine production. They are not even, at 24% of the total, a majority of the wines produced there. The majority of wines of the Medoc are crus bourgeois. They are produced in each of the eight appellations of the region, by a total of 419 producers. Usually they are far less expensive than their classified growth neighbors, and the best of them in good years can rival a number of those far more expensive bottles. I was initiated into the regional wine society, the Commanderie du Bontemps du Medoc et Des Graves, by Henri Martin, perhaps the most celebrated producer of a cru bourgeois in the region. Then I learned that these wines can be tasty and excellent. Also, they are far less costly than classified growths. Let me introduce you to a few good ones. The crus bourgeois were first grouped in 1932. However, the effects of the Depression and the First World War meant many of the first list didn’t survive long. In 1962, a Federation of Medoc Crus Bourgeois was formed, and over the years this organization has led the way to imposing production and quality standards for these wines, as well as regulating who will qualify to be listed as a cru bourgeois, now a term that is registered under French law. So the next time you find yourself at your wine retail store, and find a Medoc wine that is not a cru classe, check to see if it may be a cru bourgeois. For $10-$25, you may have a treat in store. The cru bourgeois label is already an indication of recognized quality. There are eight appellations in the Medoc. Let’s list them, in roughly north-south order, and then I’ll suggest one cru bourgeois that I like from each area. The first two are regional appellations, Medoc and Haut Medoc. These are large areas, as you might suspect. The Medoc appellation, which has no classified growths, produces over 30 million bottles a year, over 30% of the wine production for the entire region. There are 127 different crus bourgeois, producing over half of the output for the Medoc appellation. In neighboring Haut Medoc, over 25 million bottles of wine are produced annually, 70% of them crus bourgeois, and only 5 classified growths. I mention these numbers not to inundate you with facts and figures. Far from it. There will be no pop quiz. The point I want to make is that there are many hundreds of fine wines, and you shouldn’t be limited in your choices. My Medoc appellation choice is a wine we’ve tasted before, Chateau Greysac. Rich and brimful of flavor, it goes perfectly with lamb dishes. My Haut Medoc appellation choice is another favorite, Chateau de Lamarque. Owned by the d’Evry family, the wine is produced on the grounds of a medieval castle, which is pictured on the label of the wine. The castle’s dungeon, now their wine cellar, has given its name to the second wine produced here. (I am pleased to note that the d’Evry family is now producing a rose wine, called Noblesse Oblige, and would welcome tasting notes.) The other six appellations are called communal appellations, and they will perhaps be more familiar. Saint Estephe, the largest, is the farthest north. It tends to produce robust, somewhat austere wines, that reward cellaring. I wouldn’t keep crus bourgeois forever, but the best could benefit by cellaring for ten years or so. My choice here is a personal favorite, Chateau Marbuzet, owned by the Prats family of the classified growth, Cos d’Estournel. This is a flavorful wine, and the chateau is well worth seeking out, for Americans on a driving tour through the region, which I warmly recommend. It is situated with a fine view over the Gironde River, and you’ll pinch yourself, for you are looking at the North Portico of the White House! As Bruno Prats told me, many French are convinced that the White House was inspired by a castle in the Dordogne region, the Chateau de Rastignac. (They have a case, but certainly not a conclusive one. Both the Chateau de Rastignac and the White House are from roughly the same era. Probably both architects were inspired from a common source.) Anyway, Chateau Marbuzet was inspired by the Chateau de Rastignac. You can see that amazing North Portico semblance on the wine label. Pauillac, of course, is one of the most famous wine appellations in the world. There, the 18 classified growths are in the vast majority, at 84% of total production. Still, the 16 Pauillac crus bourgeois are worth seeking out. I’d recommend Chateau La Fleur Milon. Saint Julien is perhaps my favorite appellation of the Medoc…
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