Chateau de Vauchoux in the Franche-Comte

My stay with family in the beautiful Franche-Comte is drawing to a close and I am sad to be leaving them. But they have organized ‘something special’ as a farewell gesture, a routine established years ago when my late husband (their son and brother) and I used to visit them together. This time it is announced that we will dine on Saturday evening, at le Chateau de Vauchoux, recently classified as rating one Michelin star. It is a matter of pride that this establishment exists within the local area. This is the restaurant that evoked a hugely appreciative response from my son and his French girlfriend only a couple of months ago when they visited from Paris, and I have heard a lot about it. On Saturday evening I am collected from my hotel and we drive ‘into the country’. Le Chateau (built in the 18thcentury) is about 16 km from ‘home’, 70km from the major town of Besancon. Our arrival at le Chateau is an experience in itself. A gravel driveway and courtyard in front of the building, glowing lights through the huge windows and a massive doorway where Mme Turin greets us warmly and enthusiastically, set the scene and the mood for the evening. It is spring, the weather is still capricious. There is a glowing fire in the open fireplace but perhaps there is other heating as well, the space is large but very warm. Once inside, seated at our table, I see through the huge windows the lingering soft light of evening – it is already about 8:30pm, but darkness is not complete before about 9:30, at least. Francine and Jean-Michel Turin bought this beautiful place in 1973, and have been here ever since. They and their daughter, a calm and very capable assistant to Mme Turin at the service, combine to provide a wonderful dining experience to a full complement of appreciative diners. The restaurant is fully booked this evening but Mme Turin still manages with typical French aplomb, to announce each course on arrival at the table, describing the dish and its accompanying alcohol with a discreet, smiling flourish. About half-way through the evening, tables laden with the best food and wine, a low hum of conversation throughout, the waitress appears triumphantly with a giant birthday cake, prepared for one of a large group at the end of the room. It is decorated with sparklers, she is smiling, and I wait for the response. Silence. I look at my sister-in-law, expecting maybe a smile, a laugh. Nothing. Where is the convivial noisy singing that would have greeted that cake in a restaurant in Sydney? ‘Pourquoi il n’y a personne qui chante?’ I whisper in my very foreign French. My sister-in-law gives me an uncertain, nervous smile. Perhaps she is embarrassed at what I might say (or do) next. The whole place is totally silent – formal, restrained, polite, and silent. I question the family about this later and find that they are bemused by my reaction. This is a restaurant of exceptionally high standard, where the cuisine, plus the rituals associated with the service, demand the highest respect. I don’t question that at all. But I had overlooked the typically French modification of personal action or reaction in deference to the accepted social ritual of the occasion. The cake was greatly appreciated at the table for which it was destined, and an orderly but happy rendition of the birthday song flowed from the shadowy recesses at the far end of the dining salon in due course. The meal was in every way a special occasion, service was perfect and we were treated, as were all the guests, like family and like royalty at the same time. The meal, as with most memorable dining experiences, lasted for hours, and it was late in the evening when we considered the possibility that it was time to leave. But Madame called us aside, monsieur le Chef was at last free to leave his domain, and I was introduced formally to them both. M Turin brought out the Livre d’Or– a book kept for special occasions and signed by some pretty impressive past guests, including great political names like Chirac, Giscard, Daniele Mitterand, and those of other well known identities Caroline de Monaco, Nina Ricci to name but a few, and invited me to sign, along with them. As a guest of my family, as a stranger (foreigner – Australians are not very common in this part of the countryside), and also as the widow of a French man and a chef, I was truly given special treatment. I was quite overwhelmed, not only by the impeccable standard of the cuisine and the service here but also by the loving thoughts of my French family who had planned this treat for me. I wanted so much for Joel to be there and enjoy the moment with me. Perhaps he was. Chateau De Vauchoux, Restaurant Jean-michel Turin Vauchoux. 70170. Port-sur-Saone. Haute-Saone FRANCE. Tel: 03 84 91 53 55 © Kay Keller Sydney, Australia.