BUZZ: Tablettes de Jean-Louis Nomicos, Auberge Flora Mikula, MICHELIN Spain Portugal 2012

10 December 2011 by Margaret Kemp    1444  
BUZZ: Tablettes de Jean-Louis Nomicos, Auberge Flora Mikula, MICHELIN Spain Portugal 2012
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
Les Tablettes de Jean-Louis Nomicos dining room. Photo courtesy of Les Tablettes de Jean-Louis Nomicos. Les Tablettes de Jean-Louis Nomicos, Paris 16th Jean-Louis Nomicos, born near Marseilles, apprenticed at age 18 with Alain Ducasse at Hôtel Le Juana, Juan-les-Pins. “I followed him everywhere, he taught me to listen to the sound of the pots on the stove, discipline and love of the finest products,” Nomicos recalls. From working worldwide with Ducasse (including Monaco) he went on to the La Grande Cascade, to Lasserre, and now he’s chez lui in the chic 16th arrondissement at Joël Robuchon’s former “Table.” Les Tablettes de Nomicos, with stunning golden, fantasy décor by architect Anne-Cécile Comar is “what every chef dreams about, his name over the door,” he sighs. Macaronis farcis aux Truffes et Foie Gras, Les Tablettes de Jean-Louis Nomicos. Nomicos’ cooking is technically perfect: each dish presented is perfect or it doesn’t leave the basement kitchen. If it’s your first time, begin with his signature Macaronis farcis aux Truffes et Foie Gras with parmesan and jus de veau . Sommelier Massimo Raugi may suggest Maison Deux Montille white Burgundy (40€). Use Massimo’s iPad to choose your region and wine. Continue with Le Sot l’y Laisse (tender nuggets just inside the chicken’s rump—nothing to do with the Colonel, darling). Apparently it translates as “only a nutter would leave these bits.” It’s truly a rare dish, so grab it and with the salsifis/crème de cèpes/Côtes de romaines added—a delight. Cheese of the moment comes from Claire Donnadieu and Chèvre frais du père Fabre. Red Saint Joseph from Stéphane Montez 2009 (45€) a perfect match. Desserts are pictures from an exhibition, as in: Chocolat Grand Cru au Praliné et noisettes caramélisées, sorbet cacao. Bon geek, bon genre: Nomicos’ neo-modern cuisine hip tech-ideas such as the iPads will be much copied, but never forget where you tasted it first. Les Tablettes de Jean-Louis Nomicos Tél: 01 56 28 16 16 16, avenue Bugeaud, Paris 16th Métro: Victor Hugo Open: 7/7 Lunch Menu Club: 3 courses cheese, dessert, coffee and wine 58€ Menu Découverte: 2 glasses of wine, 3 courses and dessert 80€ Menu de Saison: 120€ Tasting Menu:  145€ Christmas Menu on December 25: 8 courses 160€ or 280€ with wine New Years Menu on January 1: 8 courses 215€ or 370€ with drinks Valet parking Lavish brunch at Hôtel La Belle Juliette by Chefs Flora Mikula and Agnès Buffet. Photo courtesy of Hôtel La Belle Juliette. Chef Flora Mikula News Remember Les Saveurs de Flora? Yes, you do, opposite the George V, Chef Flora Mikula (ex-Passard and Vigato) set up a rose bonbon resto, showcasing mouth-watering cooking with flavors from her native Provence. But Flora was never comfortable in the Golden Triangle, too much of a free spirit. So, one day Flora shut up shop and nobody knew where Flora was. But after a recent chance encounter in the Richerenches truffle market, I at least tracked her down. “I’m so happy, I feel free,” she said.  “But, if you hear of anything in the Bastille area let me know, I’m looking for my own house, rooms, restaurant, loads of atmosphere, fantastic design, you know what I mean.” And sure enough, since then Flora’s found her 3-story dream auberge and Auberge Flora is going to be huge when it opens in the Spring 2012. In the meantime, Flora’s created brunch Italian style with her friend Chef Agnès Buffet at the charming Left Bank boutique Hôtel La Belle Juliette. Hôtel La Belle Juliette Tél: 01 42 22 97 40 92, rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris 6th Métro: Varenne Sunday Brunch 11-4pm 28€ instead of 35€ MICHELIN Red Guide España & Portugal 2012: Hotels & Restaurants MICHELIN Guide España & Portugal 2012: Hotels & Restaurants (Michelin Red Guide, Spanish and Portuguese only) features 4,448 establishments, 2,246 hotels, 295 country guesthouses, 1,783 restaurants and—in Spain—124 tapas bars. It also lists a selection of 229 Bib Gourmand restaurants that offer high-quality meals at a reasonable price (€35 or less) and 51 hotels displaying the Bib Hotel label, meaning affordable, quality accommodations, with double rooms available for €65 or less in major cities and tourist destinations and for €55 euros or less in other locations. The 2012 edition also includes 311 especially pleasant establishments, highlighted in red. This year, five Spanish restaurants were awarded three stars: Akelarre and Arzak, San Sebastian, Martín Berasategui in Lasarte-Oria (Guipúzcoa), Restaurant Sant Pau in Sant Pol de Mar (Barcelona) and El Celler de Can Roca in Gerona. Nineteen restaurants get two stars and 127 one star. Whoops! Torijos, Valencia, shut after the closing date for the MICHELIN Guide España & Portugal 2012. iPhone app: MICHELIN Barcelona Guide 2012 Looking for a quiet Barcelona bistro or a gastronomic restaurant? A coming app for iPhone or iPod Touch includes a complete presentation of each restaurant including contact details, awards and amenities, opening periods, prices and comments. Use your iPhone to locate it on a map and book a table directly. The iPhone or iPod Touch app will be available in March 2012 for €7.99. MICHELIN Guide Barcelona 2012 for iPhone will be €3.99. À la semaine prochaine!
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By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !