Bernard du 15 & Frenchie Buzz

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Bernard du 15 & Frenchie Buzz
“I worked at Thierry Burlot’s Le 15, when I left and needed to identify myself with suppliers, I would say, “bonjour this is Bernard from Le 15”, so that’s what I’ve called my restaurant”, explains Breton born Bernard Sellin. Bernard explains that his mother’s excellent cuisine influenced his career choice. “I use many of her recipes, and each time I thank her. I went to hotel school and then decided to take a years sabbatical – it lasted three years!” Bernard, fascinated by the Caribbean says the islands influence his cuisine. Certainly he has a light savvy use of rare spices and Le 15’s white walls are punctuated with colourful naif paintings. He cheffed on yachts, loved visiting local markets for fresh produce, and says Dominica’s  his favourite memory. “Not the Dominican Republic”, he insists. “But Dominica where 365 rivers rush to the sea, there’s national parks, it’s a World Heritage Site”. And does he want to return? “No, that part of my life is finished”, he sighs taking a long long at the schooner in the glass case . “That’s a model of the boat that transported Lafayette to the United States”, he says. With Thierry Burlot (now at Zebra Square) he also worked at Baccarat’s Cristal Room (now in the hands of Guy Martin) and also at Bistro 121 which he adored,  “on a du vrai cuisine”, he grins. The menu at Le 15 is short. “Some clients don’t understand, but I insist on fresh products and  change the menu daily.” His starter, main, dessert costs just 17€ and that’s lunch and dinner. Last Tuesday it was Lasagne de legumes, Brochette d’Agneau and Tarte au Pommes à la Catalane. Lovely with a glass of Saint Chiniane Les Metaieries at 5€. Delicious bread is from Le Quartier du Pain in nearby rue St. Charles. www.lequartierdupain.com The three course 34€ menu has two starters, two mains and two desserts to choose from. Tartine de sardines Bretonne au Thym. Herb roasted Supreme of pintade, with pommes grenailles (the skin left on, just sautéd golden). Tiramisu maison, is his popular dessert. As is Crêpe flambée, crème a l’orange caramelisé, made to an authentic Breton recipe in a cast iron pan. The orange cream is Olivier Roellinger’s recipe: I stole it”, he admits. “Come and see the kitchen”, beckons Sellin; always a good sign. Lots of copper pots and pans, pride of place goes to his PacoJet in which he makes sublime, vanilla, carambar and coconut ice-cream. Saturdays there’s cookery courses in the kitchen (40€). Good idea to learn from a suberb talent like Sellin. Bernard du 15 62 rue des Entrepreneurs, 15th Metro: Charles Michels Shut  Saturday Lunch, Sunday, Monday lunch T: 01 40 59 09 27 No site When French chef Gregory Marchand worked for Jamie Oliver at “15 London” they called him “Frenchie” in the kitchen. He also travelled extensively and did 18 months at New York’s  Gramercy Tavern. “Gweg”, from Nantes recently returned to France with cute baby, lovely wife and, last April, set up his space in a romantic cobblestone street opposite the tres buzzing quartier Montorgueil. His bistro “Frenchie” is New York loft meets Paris Bistro, with a touch of North London. The menu changes daily and “Gweg”  (read the BD in the spotless loo) works alone in a tiny kitchen, with a pretty plongeur who somebody will discover and put on the front of “Elle” very soon. From the bistro see him framed in the kitchen window, following his dishes almost into diner’s mouths. Crab ravioli or Gazpacho (no garlic!) with calamare. Plump Saint Jacques, coco de Paimpol, violet artichokes or braised Epaule d’Agneau with aigre-doux spinach. Nice touch with the baguette à l’ancienne – Brittany butter. Gorgonzola, or Perles de Japon (tapioca), fraises des bois and a touch of coriander. Warm passion fruit tart – crème fraiche. Wines by the glass, about 5€, are noted on the mirror. The list is excellent, carefully chosen, ask advise from the divine Francois-Xavier, who someone will discover and put on the cover of Vogue Hommes. Watch out Greg, you’ll have no staff, train the babe ASAP. White Viré-Clessé (32€). Red Morgon Côte de Py Beaujolais (36€) Greg’s passionate, young and deserves to succeed. “This guy really knows how to cook”, agree four Americans at the next table. There’s only space for about 18, with a few tables outside on the cobblestones, so book ahead. Frenchie 5 rue de Nil 2nd Metro: Sentier Shut: Sun-Mon Tues lunch Lunch 2 dishes 16€ – 3 dishes 19€ Dinner 2 dishes 29€ – 3 dishes 35€ + wine T: 01 40 39 96 19 www.frenchie-restaurant.com www.guardian.co.uk/world/2009/aug/19/bolivia-cocaine-bar-route-36 The world’s first cocaine bar. You couldn’t make it up!
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Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !