Around and About Paris: Montmartre
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The blissful vine has been part of Montmartre since times immemorial,
as the following story alludes to and brings to light. You will find
the full story of Montmartre in Around and About Paris, Volume III, in
the chapter on the 18th arrondissement. Around and About Paris by
Thirza Vallois is published by Iliad Books, UK. For more information
and Thirza’s appearance schedule, please visit her website .
The
18th arrondissement has been a place of pilgrimage since the dawn of
time. Hilltops and summits always aroused the imagination of people,
who believed them to be the abode of divinities. The ancient Celts are
believed to have attributed mystical powers to the hill of Montmartre
and to have erected ritual megaliths on the sacred hill, under the
guidance of the Druids. This was also a place of worship for the Romans
who built here temples for the gods Mars, Mercury and perhaps Jupiter.
But it was above all the martyrdom of a Christian, Saint Denis, that
put Montmartre on the map as a sacred place of pilgrimage (martyrium
was a cemetery for persecuted Christians, hence Montmartre and rue des
Martyrs).
The story of Saint Denis picking up his head after it had
been cut off struck a chord wherever it circulated throughout medieval
Europe, transmitted by troubadours and minstrels who sang in courts and
castles. The story went that Saint Denis came to preach the gospel in
Lutetia with his two companions Rustique and Eleuthère. The three men
were arrested on the site of 25 rue Henri Barbusse, next to the
Val-de-Grâce in the 5th arrondissement. This was the first of the seven
stations of their martyrdom, during which they covered the area of the
city from south to north. They were to have been put to death at the
temple of Mercury at the top of Montmartre, but the soldiers, tired of
climbing the steep slope, beheaded them halfway up the hill, on the
site of the present 9 rue Yvonne-le-Tac. And there, lo and behold, the
holy man picked up his head, continued to ascend the hill till he came
to a fountain on the site of what is now the Impasse Girardon, where he
stopped to wash his blood-stained head, and then carried on north for
another ‘good league’ (roughly 4 miles). Only then did he collapse,
expiring at the feet of the pious widow Catulla, who buried him on the
site.
No sooner was this done than corn grew on the grave,
concealing it from those who would profane it, but not from Saint
Geneviève, the patron of Paris, who had no difficulty in locating it
two centuries later. Around the year 475 she set up an oratory on the
grave, which became the nucleus of the famous Basilica of Saint Denis.
So much for historical accuracy!
According to other
traditions, the bones of Saint Denis were found on the above-mentioned
site of his execution. The remains of Christians were indeed
concentrated in a quarry here, but whether Saint Denis was one of them
cannot be verified. A chapel was erected over the quarry, probably
around the 9th century, although the first mention of sanctum martyrium
appeared only in 1096. The identity of the Saint and the era when he
lived (probably in the 3rd century) have given rise to similar
confusion. In Hilduin’s Chronicles of Saint Denis the name is spelt
Dionysii, which suggests that the original Denis may have been non
other than Dionysus, the god of wine, a plausible assumption in an area
renowned for its wine.
Could the names of the three
evangelists, Denis, Rustique and Eleuthère, have been derived from a
dedication on his temple – Dionyso rustico eleuthero (‘Dionysus, rustic
and free’)? Or maybe Dionysus had simply lost his head from too much
heavy drinking? In which case he would have plunged his head into the
fountain to wash away his sin, or more prosaically, to recover from a
hangover.
The purifying quality of those waters was common belief
at the time, as is attested by the saying: Jeune fille qui a bu l’eau
de Saint Denys, sera fidèle a son mari (‘A damsel who has drunk from
the water of Saint Denys, will be faithful to her husband’). Be that as
it may, the chapel on rue Yvonne-le-Tac became a place of pilgrimages,
the earliest of which dates from 1096. Among the innumerable pilgrims
was Charles VI of France who came here twice, in 1391 and 1392, hoping
to find a cure for his madness.
In 1133 an additional shrine was
provided for pilgrims when Adelaide of Savoy, wife of Louis VI and
sister of Pope Calixtus II, founded the women’s abbey on top of the
hill. Pilgrims came to Montmartre not just from France but also from
all over Europe, among them Pope Alexander III, the Italian Saint
Thomas Aquinas, and Thomas à Beckett, the Archbishop of Canterbury. On
18 November 1169 Louis VII of France invited Beckett and King Henry II
of England to the Abbey of Montmartre in an unsuccessful effort to
reconcile the two men.
There were also magnificent processions
between the Basilica of Saint Denis and Montmartre every seven years,
which were perpetuated from the time of Dagobert I, in the 7th century,
until the Revolution. Most important of all, it was at the chapel on
rue Yvonne-le-Tac that on 15 August 1534 the Spaniard Ignatius of
Loyola and his companions founded the Jesuit Order. In 1611, while
repairs were being conducted after the destruction caused by the Wars
of Religion, a flight of old steps leading to a vault were discovered.
The words MAR CLEMIN DIO, engraved in the rock, gave rise to feverish
excitement. Nobody questioned the authenticity of the inscription,
which had to mean ‘martyr, Clement (the Pope at the time of Saint
Denis), and Denis.’ This must surely be the place of martyrdom of Saint
Denis. As many as 60,000 pilgrims, led by the Queen Mother, Marie de
Medici, in person, came to pray at the holy shrine. A new abbey was
built at the spot, which eventually took the place of the less
accessible abbey on the top of the hill, founded back in the 12th
century.
—
Thirza Vallois is the author of Around and About
Paris, Volumes I, II, III published by Iliad Books, UK, and Romantic
Paris, co-published by Interlink (US) and Arris Books (UK). Visit her
at www.thirzavallois.com