Antiquing in Normandy

Normandy: To Americans, the best known province of France. History has left its mark and scars in this corner of France; certainly, the site of the most famous military operation of World War II. Maybe, that is why Americans make Normandy the first province they visit in France after visiting Paris. I must admit I did. Of course, I went to see the beaches and the WW II sights. After all, many a night, my father would soothe me to sleep, with stories of the great battles of which he had been a part in this exotic area of the world. What I did not expect to find was the following: beautiful little sleepy towns, filled with medieval half-timbered homes, windowsills bursting with geraniums that represented every hue of the color chart looking too perfect to be real. I delighted in the cheeses, the seafood and let’s not forget Normandy’s greatest gift to twentieth century man, Calvados. The hospitality of the people in this region is jarring, especially if you have just come from Paris. They like Americans! Behind their smile, I always think, is the thought, “you came, you saved us and most important, you left.” Enough to make anyone smile, n’est-ce pas? Normandy is divided into two regions. We will spend time researching the northern half of Normandy, which includes the Calvados region, the Cote Fleurie and the Pays d’Auge. This area was my first foray into the world of antiquing in the provinces. As I’ve always noted, Normand furniture is the most similar to American antique rustic furniture originating from New England and the Mid-Atlantic states. Maybe that is why I was first drawn to its charm, simple yet ornate and descriptively graceful. Normand armoires at their best are the most sought after and single most beautiful meuble français. Chene et pin, (oak and pine) are two woods used for these magnificent giants. Oak is usually stained a rich, golden brown and pine (which I must admit, is my least favorite wood) is stained a golden honey patina. Most armoires have a bonnet top, with a series of carvings that are quite sophisticated. The armoires are of a grand scale and the paradox of such a simple region (when it comes to esthetics) producing the grandest of all regional armoires, does not get lost on this aficionado. Many eighteenth century furniture sets, which included the armoire, sideboard, commode, grandfather clock, chevet and marriage chest were part of a dowry. To find a full, intact set these days is quite rare, but it is easy to recognize. The markings will be the same on each part of the ensemble, frequently with hearts carved on the side-panels of each piece. I acquired an horloge demoiselle and a chevet from the same set, originating from the Pays D’Auge region, easy to identify, as the bonnets have a rounded sculpture with certain uniformed markings. As I said, you can find similarities between American rustic country and the meubles rustiques from this region, maybe that is why out of all the furniture styles of France, I find meubles Normands the most simpatico with my American and English antiques. They blend like old friends, similar, yet different enough to enhance each other. Normandy is more than antiquites et antiquaires. The stretch of road hugging the sea between Deauville and the beautiful medieval town of Honfleur is nature at it’s most harmonious and symbiotic. The beauty of the best kept secret in France (well maybe that is an exaggeration, I do know one or two people who had discovered it before I had!), is Rouen. A city that has the most wonderful jumble of narrow lanes, antique shops and a shopping pedestrian street with amazing character. Deauville and Trouville, wonderful resort towns, side by side, yet so different. Let’s not forget Bayeux and it’s famous tapestry, Caen and the most comprehensive museum dedicated to WW II in France and, of course, the beaches. The names are forever sketched in our memories, Omaha, Utah, the battle of Cherbourg…. Normandy is a treasure-trove for the antique dealer, collector, lover or browser. You really won’t have trouble finding brocantes or antiquaires to explore. Indeed, we were heading through the countryside, on the N13 highway between Liseux and Evreux, of course, I scared my companion with my famous “STOP THE CAR!” There, on the left-side of the road was a delightful brocante filled with lovely 19th siecle furniture, typical of the Pays d’Auge. I found a side-table with unique, beautiful carvings, a brilliant shade of soft brown created by a combination of age and stained oak. I love this little table, and when I remember the final bargaining price I paid, I love it even more! My point, you don’t have to pull out a map, study it with magnifying-glasses and search like the dickens to find the nearest shop! ROUEN I already mentioned my claim to being the first American with enough sense to leave Paris to discover this untapped city, sort of like Columbus (only searching for antiques, not land). This is my kind of Gallic city, authentique. First, you must visit the sight where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake, although not much is left to explore, for those interested in this ghastly part of the long human drama. The cathedral is a must, one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture in France. Most attractions and shopping are close to the cathedral as well. The Rue du Gros Horloge, the main pedestrian shopping street, is not where you will find the antiques, but it is a “must-do” as you will pass under an arch supporting the famous, antique clock, the Gros Horloge. The antique district is in my favorite part of town, the medieval village, which starts about a block from the cathedral. Many shops are located around Saint Maclau and the streets surrounding it are chock full of brocantes and antiquaires. Prices are a good 30-40% less than Paris. Of course, the one difference here, the selection is all Normand. Rouen was a big faience producing town throughout the centuries and you will find much in the way of antique ceramics and porcelain, as well as modern reproductions. Oddly enough, this is one area where I don’t fill my suitcases with pichets, plats et jarres. The ceramics and porcelain style of this city, borrowed heavily from Asian design, is much too elegant and ornate for moi….