Antibes or Antipolis

It’s one of my favorite French destinations. You could make it yours too. They call it Antibes and it sits in the sun on the southern coast of France’s Riviera, known as the Cote-D’Azur, the azure coast. The color is typically French Riviera. The light is perfect and the weather perfect.   Antibes is far from the politics of Paris. It is a perfect holiday spot, a holiday place in the sun.   The settlement goes back about five centuries BC when the Greek traders and fishermen called it Antipolis. Later, the Romans called it Angiboul, then Angibou. But it’s now Antibes for all time.   It’s a special place, discovered by the literati and jet setters of the 20th century.  Many American expatriates visited the walled city of Antibes where the French charm of southern Provencal France is at its best. People like Hemingway went there as did F. Scott Fitzgerald and Zelda, his wife, John Dos Passos and movie stars like Rita Hayworth, Orson Wells and Marlena Deitrich. In more modern times one could spot Madonna, Johnny Depp, Tom Cruise and Robert De Niro on the ramparts or in the old town.   There are reasons to head to Antibes as Picasso well knew. The light, the sun, the climate, beaches, restaurants and the warm hospitality makes it a must. I love walking on the ramparts, looking down at the bathers and up at the 12th century Grimaldi palace that is now the Picasso Museum. Pablo lived close by in the 1940’s where he painted and worked at the nearby ceramics center at Valloris.  The master donated 150 works to the city, which was the start of this excellent museum. The author Graham Greene lived there for 20 years where he “truly felt at home.” So too did Renoir and Leger. There is something magical about the narrow streets, the magnificent harbor and the proximity to the beautiful homes at nearby Juan-Les-Pins, pronounced with a hard “J.” I have special memories of my first stay in the area and that special French spoken that typical southern way. The last syllable is hard as in une pomm-e (uh).   Antibes has something for everybody. In February there is a Festival d’Art Sacre when musicians from around the world celebrate vocal, orchestral, chamber and religious music. There is an antique fair in April, which draws up to 60,000 bargain hunters to what is now Europe’s largest antique fair. There are boat races, an international jazz festival that has featured such greats as Louis Armstrong, Duke Ellington and Ella Fitzgerald.  Add to this an underwater film festival every fall and the city’s proximity to the Cannes festival and the carnival at Nice each year. There are spas, National Parks for outdoorsmen, glass blowing courses at nearby Biot and cooking classes in a city famous for its restaurants.   There’s a circus festival close to Monaco, fashion shows, flower displays, a semi-marathon and a Masters Tennis Tournament in Monte-Carlo every April. The summer is set aside for Art shows in Cannes, the Cannes Film Festival and International Athletics Competitions in nearby Nice. For those who like Formula I racing, The Grand Prix in Monaco each May will thrill you.   Add to this the more silent Cap d’Antibes where you can rent a chateau looking out over the azure sea. The setting is perfect for the painter, novelist or philosopher. The price might be another question. I don’t usually stay there for more than a few days. Try reading Hemingway’s Garden of Eden or Fitzgerald’s Tender is the Night before you go. There is something magic about the pace and the total feeling of well-being. The city has many good hotels or apartment rentals. Don’t rush your visit. Give yourself time to savor the atmosphere of one of the most serene and artistic places in the south of France. My first dinner in a tiny waterfront restaurant earned me a soothing Cognac from the owner who welcomed a tourist who spoke French. For information about festivals, the town and hotel bookings, contact:                 www.antibesjuanlespins.com or email: [email protected]   For special insight into the southern regions of Provence, watch the films like  Manon Du Source and Jean De Florette with Yves Montand speaking in the dialect he knew so well. He was born in the south. Even Depardieu added to the historical sense of what the region is to France.   Fly to Nice and rent a car or travel from Paris to Nice or Marseille on the fast TGV. There are even helicopters from Nice. Whatever way you chose to get there, the arrival will be your reward.    Look for me. I’m there often. I’m the one with the permanent smile rummaging through the market for honey, wine or deliciously ripe Provencal fruit.