Acorn Squash and Apple Soup & Rosemary Applesauce

Apples are so omnipresent in American markets that I think sometimes we forget that they’re really a fall crop. This is the time of year that you’ll find apples in a wide array of varieties, not just the usual McIntosh, Golden and Red Delicious, and Granny Smith. There are many newly developed varieties, as well as antique ones that are once again being grown commercially, albeit in small quantities. Some of these apples are eating apples: crisp, sweet, and full of flavor. Others are better for cooking, and some varieties are multipurpose. Two of the recipes below recommend specific varieties, because it matters; in the third the choice isn’t critical. Take advantage of the bounty of autumn to sample as many varieties as you can, since some wonderful apples, like Macoun (an eating apple) and Northern Spy (a cooking apple), have short seasons. Explore farm stands and greenmarkets for apples that are local to your area; you’ll probably find some treasures.   I have two general preparation tips for apples. To keep them from browning once they’re peeled, either toss them with some lemon juice, or drop them into acidulated water, which is water to which some lemon juice has been added (about 2 tablespoons per cup). Whether or not you bother with this depends on how much you care that the apples stay white. It’s certainly not necessary for the soup or the sautéed apples below, and I myself wouldn’t bother for the applesauce, but it’s up to you. (Also note that different apples brown—that is, oxidize, exactly the same reaction that iron has when it rusts—at different rates; a McIntosh moves quickly, whereas a Granny Smith is a real slowpoke and thus a good choice when you want to serve fresh apple wedges.) The other tip has to do with coring apples: the absolutely best way to do this is with a melon-baller. Make one scoop at the blossom end and one at the stem end, then halve the apple and make one scoop in each half to remove the seeds. Aside from being the quickest effective method of coring apples, this has the added advantage of giving you very elegantly shaped apples for a presentation in which the shape is visible, such as in the superb recipe for Thin Apple Tarts that acclaimed New York City bistro chef Stephen Lyle generously shared with Bonjour Paris. Acorn Squash and Apple Soup   This delectable potage is the quintessence of fall, with the natural sweetness of acorn squash and apples. You can actually make it with any winter squash—butternut, hubbard, delicata—and with pretty much any apple you like, since the texture of the apple is obliterated when you purée the soup. It makes a superb first course for Thanksgiving dinner. 1 medium acorn squash1/2 cup chopped walnuts2 tablespoons butter1 onion, roughly chopped1 apple, peeled, cored, and diced2 tablespoons all-purpose flour2 cups chicken stock3/4 cup heavy creamDry sherry to tasteCinnamon to tasteNutmeg to tasteGround cloves to tasteSalt and pepper to taste Halve the squash from top to bottom and scrape out the seeds with a teaspoon. Place it cut sides down in a small baking pan with a scant 1/4 inch of water in the bottom of it and bake until soft in a preheated 350-degree oven, about 45 minutes. (Or reassemble the cut squash, place on a plate, and microwave on high power until soft, turning it over about halfway through–the time needed will vary drastically with different microwaves.) While the squash bakes, place the walnuts in a single layer in a small shallow baking pan and put them in the oven with the squash just until they’re lightly toasted, about 10 minutes or less; be careful not to overtoast them. Let the squash and the walnuts cool. In a saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat and add the onion. Sauté until it is soft but not browned, stirring occasionally, then add the apple and sauté briefly. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring, for a minute or so. Then very gradually, especially at first, add the chicken stock, stirring constantly (if you add it too rapidly, the flour will form lumps). Scoop the squash from its peel with a teaspoon and drop the chunks into the saucepan. Simmer 15 minutes, covered. Purée the soup in a blender or food processor, or with a food mill, but be very careful with the hot liquid. Return it to the saucepan, stir in the cream, and season to taste with the sherry, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and salt and pepper (be judicious with the spices; this is not dessert). Heat just to the boiling point. Ladle into soup bowls and garnish with the toasted walnuts. Serves 4. Rosemary Applesauce This applesauce is a savory accompaniment to pork, or to poultry of any kind. Make sure not to oversweeten it—you want it sweetish, but not as sweet as you would make an applesauce to end a meal. You can choose from a number of apples when you make any applesauce. I prefer to use at least two varieties, for complexity of flavor, but you needn’t. You do, however, want apples that will break down and won’t hold their shape too well—McIntosh, Cortland, Rome Beauty—although having said this, I will tell you that if you use a preponderance of apples of that sort, a small proportion of firmer apple, like Northern Spy or Granny Smith, will give your sauce a very pleasant chunkiness. If you don’t care for rosemary (you don’t???), then you can substitute thyme; either herb will work well. You might also want to add some onion to this, sautéed in a little butter until soft but not browned; add it when the apples just begin to break down. To make the applesauce, peel and core your apples and cut them into chunks. Place them in a heavy saucepan over low heat and add a little water—about 1 tablespoon…