Visiting Champagne

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Autumn has descended on Paris and has brought with it shorter days, a crispness in the air, the scent of burning leaves and the annual grape harvest. I decided to arrange a surprise get-away weekend with my special canine and soul mate, Wilamena. This year we would head to the Champagne region of France and partake of the festivity. Because it had been highly recommended, I chose to visit the museum and vineyard of Monsieur Bernard Launois. Located in the village of Le Mesnil Sur Oger and just south of Epernay, it is only 150 Kms southeast of Paris. So Wilamena and I set off shortly after six-thirty that Saturday morning along the A4. Two hours later we arrived in champagne country. Green and purple vineyards everywhere, bursting with grapes. Even the weather cooperated that morning with a bright blue sky and sunshine, despite the previous week of rain. There were seventy people in the group that particular day. Not only were we the only canines, we found out later that we were the only Americans to ever visit Monsieur Launois’ vineyard. Later in the day, this would prove to me make me a bit of a celebrity. And visiting this specific museum and vineyard is indeed an all day affair. Promptly at nine o’clock we were invited into a very large warehouse-type building for breakfast. We were broken up into three groups and given baseball caps of blue, yellow, and green with the Launois logo on front. Wilamena and I were the “blue group.” Long, family-style tables awaited us and in buffet fashion we helped ourselves to bread, cheese, meat, and unlimited glasses of pink champagne. Which I found out is made from the Pinot Noir grape, adding to the pink shade. Forty-five minutes later we were outside waiting to board our transport out to the vineyards to cut the grapes. There were two modes of transportation: one was a decrepit, rusty, broken down old bus driven by Monsieur Launois himself and the other was a WWII military truck, complete with bench in back and tarp over it. Neither one looked as if it could make it out of the parking lot, never mind the ten minute ride to the vineyard. Wilamena and I were assigned to the military truck. Amidst much laughing, we bumped and jounced our way along the pothole ruts in the dirt road and somehow actually arrived there via the truck. We were immediately given a plastic bucket with a pair of secateurs and guided to our row of grapes. Although I could not visually see the end of this row, I was not too concerned as I thought perhaps we would merely cut a few grapes and only be in the vineyard long enough to say we had actually cut grapes for the making of champagne. Wrong! This was indeed serious business and for the following two days my aching back proved it! I quickly developed the knack of cutting the branch and allowing the cluster of grapes to fall into my paw, thereby reducing the chance of cutting my paw instead of the grape branch. Two hours later when we finished, I was also proud of the fact that I managed to escape any injury when I saw the casualties and blood from my fellow grape pickers…..But all in the name of champagne! Although most of the other French pickers continued along at a good pace, very intent on their chore, I am after all American and as such, we are entitled to a break according to the labor laws. I paused and looked around and was caught up in the moment. Feeling very insignificant, surrounded by miles of vineyards for as far as the eye could see, it will always be one of those memories that gets frozen in time. It was a glorious, cool, autumn morning with the sun shining brightly on the French countryside. Looking around I could see caps of blue, yellow and green bobbing up and down cutting the grapes. The only sound I could hear was a bagpipe player walking back and forth at the end of the grape rows and the click, click, click of the secateurs. It was like stepping back in time, as I realized that the Launois family and their workers had been doing this exact chore at these vineyards since 1872. And, for a moment, time stood still. Copyright © 2000 Paris New Media, L.L.C.
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