Slice of Pandemic Life: Food News from Paris

18 May 2020 by Margaret Kemp    1034  
Slice of Pandemic Life: Food News from Paris
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
“Accidents are very important.” –Peter Beard (1938-2020) French Prime Minister Edouard Philippe has announced the re-opening of some restaurants from 2nd June. However, butchers, chefs, pastry chefs / bartenders had to act fast when the government closed their precious addys. With the mission statement “there’s always a solution,” delivery has become the “new black.” We can’t wait to book at the following faves, so, until then, let’s see what’s cooking… chez eux. Divellec The fabulous left bank fish/seafood canteen, now helmed by Mathieu Pacaud, delivers delicious dishes such as Navarin of Lobster, Sea Bass confit with citrus olive oil, Bouillabaisse contemporaine, Fontainebleau (creamcheese mixed with whipped cream) wild wood strawberries, rhubarbe and other market-driven menu items – Monday to Saturday about €80. Match with white Meursault 2016 Domaine Mikulski (€85). All surplus food goes to Paris hospitals. Chef’s Hotline: Tel: 06 61 86 48 94 – email: [email protected] Hélène Darroze From the lively open kitchen of Jòia (joy in Béarn patois), there’s a menu that changes every week featuring classics from this appropriately named restaurant located on rue des Jêuners. Wine pairings available – 3 mouthwatering courses (€45). Delivery possible + click & collect. La Rôtisserie d´Argent The charming Parisian bistro is now offering hot dishes to enjoy at home, cooked with care and love by chef Sébastien Devos in collaboration with Yannick Franques, La Tour d´Argent executive chef. Yannick reinterprets recipes from his repertoire each week for the Rôtisserie to the delight of his salivating customers. Roast duck for two, or, say, leek vinaigrette can be ordered – for delivery or click and collect – at Rôtisserie d’Argent on Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 11am – 2pm and 6pm – 8pm. La Tour d’Argent “But, I prefer to cook my lunch/dinner myself.” No worries, order the most famous duck in the world, matching wines, and a multitude of TDA brand signature ingredients – delivered to your door – or click and collect. And, if you’re in the ‘hood, Boulanger de La Tour bakes the best breads, quiches, pastries etc… La Réserve Le Gabriel’s Chef Jérôme Banctel composes 2 menus weekly, inspired by his menu at the ** restaurant, to enjoy at home. Order 24 hours in advance, from 10am – 6 pm or, pick-up the next day from 11:30am to 1:30pm and 5:30pm – 7:30 pm. Chef Banctel says, “Dear diners, your well-being and safety remain our highest priority, which is why we comply with the strictest hygiene standards in production and delivery, provided exclusively by our team.” Deliveries, supplement of 10 euros per order. Tel: 01 58 36 60 50 Brasserie Rosie The recently opened, Bastille-based Brasserie has launched take-out! Chef Denis Gamard and his brigade suggest classics such as ham and truffle shells, pâté en croûte or pigeon pithiviers. Pastry Chef Yohan David is constructing giant Rum Baba and/or the addictive chocolate chocolate. Click & Collect available for lunch and dinner. Wine? Bandol Domaine Tempier 2018 (€29). Perfect ! Chez Rosie, everything’s housemade and there’s an eclectic selection of wines at cellar prices. To order, click here. Septime It’s always tough getting a reservation at Bertrand Grebaut’s edgy canteen. So, order 24 hours in advance – three course menu – €32. Dishes may include the following: For the starter, fresh herb velouté, cheese, rhubarbe, 5-spice blette, croutons; for the Main, hay roast guinea fowl, sauvignon jus, smoked potato mousseline, or roast chicken. Dessert: Jar of chocolate cream with black cardamom and olive oil, or the Muscovado Crumble and hazelnut praline. All ready to eat, re-heating instructions in the bag. And, always a veggie option. Order from the menu 7/7 to take-out or click and collect. Choose wines from the list. Email: [email protected] L’Assiette, At Home, by David Rathgeber Young maverick chef trained and trusted by Alain Ducasse to set up Benoit, Paris, NYC and Japan. He’s done time at the Plaza Athénee and Aux Lyonnais then set up his L’Assiette (plate) in a former butcher’s shop made famous by Lucette Rousseau – aka Lulu’s – and with François Mitterand often papped at Table No. 4. Choose from a daily selection of soothing traditional dishes and bring Montparnasse to the maison. Tel: 01 43 22 64 86 Restaurant du Palais Royal This lovely restaurant presents “Jazz Thursdays” – from June 4 to July 9, 2020 – 7:30pm to 9:30pm. In this romantic setting, the cobblestone terrace is the backdrop for an exciting musical series. On these unique summer nights, the Palais-Royal garden will echo with the sounds of Gypsy jazz guitar and bass – offering a unique musical and culinary experience, far from the hustle and bustle of the city. Menu du Jeudis Jazz by chef Philip Chronoupoulis: 7 courses €157 + wine Cali Sisters, Capucine and Juliette, are animated by common passions: cooking & California. They were to launch Cali Sisters Restaurant at 17, rue Notre Dame des Victoires, on March 17th – the first day of le confinement! So, while waiting to welcome you, they’ve created “Cali Sisters At Home”, made and delivered with care. On the menu every week: a starter, two dishes including a veggie option and dessert “made in California”. Duck…
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Lead photo credit : courtesy of Divellec

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By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !