Le Parister, Sellae, Le Vaudeville, L’Innocence: Where We’re Eating Now in Paris

8 May 2018 by Margaret Kemp    2800  
Le Parister, Sellae, Le Vaudeville, L’Innocence: Where We’re Eating Now in Paris
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
“Whoever does not visit Paris regularly will never really be elegant.”  —Honoré de Balzac, 1830 Les Passerelles, Le Parister Hotel This recent opening located between Montmartre and Pigalle, recalls Richard Rodgers and Lorenz Hart’s romantic ballad, “there’s a small hotel with a wishing well, I wish that we could be there together.” If you’re happy to exchange a 20-meter swimming pool and state of the art fitness centre (pilates, gym, yoga etc) for the wishing well, book this five-star, 45-room and suite boutique beauty (from about €216 + breakfast €15-€25) or reserve lunch in the tranquil walled garden. Cape Verde born chef Arikson Lima Martins sends out dishes inspired by his travels, say, crab, avocado, pomegranate seeds wrapped in cool as cucumber leaves, or Tataki of Beef and Pear Crumble. Lunch formula €19-€25 or A La Carte about €37 + wine. “Accents are on the freshest possible seasonal products; I change the menu almost daily”, says chef Lima. Bread’s by Dominique Saibron, while Maison Nordique Salmon, Ferme de Peupliers (Normandy dairy products) and Petite Ferme Parisienne (for cheese) are also suppliers. The wine card reads well and the bar stocks the biggest selection of whiskies in town. At night – accents are on terrific tapas (from €9) and exciting cocktails, classic or without alcohol. Read, Moscow Mule, Old Fashioned, Dry Martini, finish with a Last Midnight Coffee (cognac Hine, Ethiopian coffee (€12) or L’Orange Mechanique (€13). “On the wall are several prints of Washington and Cleveland” continues the song. At Parister the airy designer space is punctuated with pieces on loan from Galerie Kamel Mennour. “We will thank that small hotel together.” 19 rue Saulnier, 9th. Metro: Cadet. Tel: +33 (0)1 80 50 91 91. Sunday Brunch 12 pm- 3 pm, priced at €35, children €25. Website: www.paristerhotel.com Sellae Following the delicious success of Michelin *Antoine, Mensae and Jacopo, the rue des Wallons is the location for Thibault Somardier’s interesting bistrothèque moderne. It’s a cabinet of curiosities, a mix of industrial chic, family and gastronomic nostalgia, reflected in mirrored designer tones of midnight blue, white and grey. Head chef Matteo Vianello (formerly at Thoumieux and Le Jules Verne) totally gets Sombadier’s concept for Sellae, sharing tapas to begin, say, parslied frog’s legs (€16); Tarama, poutargue, grated lemon (€7); Jambon Iberico Cinco Jotas (€20); or classic starters such as Moules Marinière (€11); creamy crab millefeuille, a touch of lime, the crab poised between transparent rice cake leafs, and, a nod and a wink to Matteo’s Venice roots with Risotto Carnaroli au jambon Ibérique with green asparagus (€15). Mains include Free range Guinea Fowl, morilles mushrooms (€28); Roast Angus beef for 2 (€60); sumptuous low temperature cooked cod with spelt and crunchy vegetables (€22); and to finish Matteo’s unique chocolate mousse (€7) or warm apple tart, fromage blanc and maple syrup (€6). Excellent, inexpensive, wines are by super-somm Fabien Vullion. “I’m mad about magnums, for the beauty of the gest and the fabulous aroma that develops in the bottle”, he says. Think Vouvray “Silex” Domaine d’Orfeuilles (€7 – €30). Pronounce it “sella” which according to chef means “chair” – oh ! I see – mensae, in latin, is table – wonder what Thibault’s planning for his next ? Go figure – but do go. 18 rue des Wallons, 13th. Metro: Saint-Marcel. Tel: +33 (0)1 43 31 36 04. Lunch formulas €19-€22 + wine. A La Carte €40-€60 + wine. Closed Sundays. No site yet. Le Vaudeville “Times change – Le Vaudeville remains” is the mission statement at this authentic brasserie/oyster bar. Originally (1838) located next to Theater Vaudeville, where  Alexandre Dumas’ Dame aux Camelias played – after performances “le tout Paris” would see and be seen for drinks or dinner. The welcome is warm, book the terrace or the sumptuous interior, recently renovated without losing the charm of “les années folles.” Begin with a coupe (“not a flute”, explains Régis Chevallier, the charming Directeur d’Exploitation) of champagne Jacques Brut Mosaïque (€6). “So romantic”, he sighs. Joël Dupuch oysters (€24 for 6) or Royal Vaudeville platter (€129.50) then go traditional with vibrant French onion soup (€8.50) or achingly kitsch avocado and prawn cocktail (€14.50). Follow with Charolais steak, salad, french fries (€19). And whipped cream rum baba (€9) or café gourmand (€12.50). Service is all day every day – pop in for a planche of charcuterie, croque Monsieur or foie gras chutney. Menus €22-€29 + A La Carte average spend €40 + wine. Daily specials about €18-€20. Fragrant Saturday-Sunday Roast leg of lamb in thyme blossom pesto with gratin dauphinois – or Wednesday fish, chips and sauce tartare – yum! Need to Know: The Bourse country market (Marché Bourse) Tuesday and Friday from 12.30 – 20.30. 29 rue Vivienne, 2nd. Metro: Bourse. Tel: +33 (0)1 40 20 04 62. Open 7/7. Website: www.vaudevilleparis.com Café By Season On the first floor of Empreintes, the artisan craft concept store, in the Haut Marais, serving matcha bowls, pancakes, muesli etc. as well as delicious sandwiches and dishes such as marinated salmon salad or bô bun with tofu. 5 rue de Picardie, 3rd. Tel: +33 (0)1 40 09 53 80. Metro: Filles de Calvaire/Temple/Republique. Open – Tuesday-Friday 1-6 pm, Saturday 11 am – 7pm. Website: www.empreintes-paris.com L’Innocence Since April, Raphaël Rego’s Maloka has a change of name and brigade. Acquired by Jonathan Caron (formerly at L’Ambroisie, La Bigarrade, Atelier Rodier) in tandem with chef Anne Legrand (Gordon Ramsey at Le Trianon Palace, Versailles, Hélène Darroze, Paris, Itineraires). Check out a friendly neo-bistro with accents on organic seasonal vegetables. Seems familiar? This was the starting point for Chicago born Daniel Rose’s iconic Spring (now packing them in, back in the US…
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Lead photo credit : Les Passerelles

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By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !