Clement Bruno is a Master of the Universe, his commodity – truffles. He selects, stores and transforms the tantalizing tubers into mouth-watering dishes from the kitchens of his restaurant, Chez Bruno, deep in the heart of Provence. And here’s the good news for trufflers: if you don’t fancy the schlep south during the winter, Bruno’s opened a restaurant/boutique/take-away truffle palace in Paris, Terres de Truffes.
Larger than life Bruno is in Paris to do a little TV, share some truffles with Dominique Saugnac and the team who have created the terrific Terres de Truffes; like Bruno, totally unique. “Since Escoffier there are no great chefs, we are intelligent conductors of orchestras. We take eight products (I assume this includes the truffles) the way a musician takes eight notes, and create a symphony,” he notes. Passionate about his tubers, the way we are about shopping/golf/sending textos, Bruno insists there’s no mystery, that everyone can enjoy them year round and, if they’re careful where they shop, they are affordable. Great! This is what we’ve all been waiting for. Step over the glass-encased truffle garden, filled with earth from Lorgues, and enter the wonderful world of Bruno, coming soon to New York, London, Milan.
Terres de Truffes is open all day, fancy a truffle sandwich/tartine for breakfast? They’ll make you anything you want, any time of the day. The menu, created by Bruno and Dominique Saugnac (who actually worked with Alain Ducasse at The Juana!) changes all the time but think in terms of Caviar of Truffles with tomato chutney, blinis and whipped cream (25€). Truffle salad (17€) and Poujarin bread baked with old Comté cheese and black winter truffles. Eggs are scrambled with truffles (20€). Potatoes baked and filled with cream of black truffles (23€) and pigeon is boned, wrapped in puff pastry and truffle-stuffed.
On to the cheese: Brie (from Meaux) is truffle-spiked, flowing Saint Marcellin is baked and truffled within an inch of its’ life. And it doesn’t stop at dessert! Apple tart sits on truffled caramel sauce, paired with truffle ice cream (8.50€). Warm chocolate cake has a soft truffle centre (8.50€). Pannacotta, served with truffled apricot jam (8.50€) and iced Amaretto parfait is drizzled with truffled honey. You can buy most of these dishes and desserts to take home and guzzle in the comfort of your own chateau, and while you’re waiting for it to be packed up have a glass of wine at the bar. Chateau la Truffe 2001, a Pomerol, seems appropriate.
21 rue Vignon, 8th (Metro:Madeleine)
T: 01 53 43 80 44
11 rue Saint-Francois-de-Paule, Nice
T: 04 93 62 07 68
Route de Vidauban, 83510. Lorgues.
T: 04 94 85 93 93.
(6 rooms) Shut Sun evening-Mon.