Gourmet Buzz: Terres de Truffes

Gourmet Buzz: Terres de Truffes
Clement Bruno is a Master of the Universe, his commodity – truffles. He selects, stores and transforms the tantalizing tubers into mouth-watering dishes from the kitchens of his restaurant, Chez Bruno, deep in the heart of Provence. And here’s the good news for trufflers: if you don’t fancy the schlep south during the winter, Bruno’s opened a restaurant/boutique/take-away truffle palace in Paris, Terres de Truffes. Larger than life Bruno is in Paris to do a little TV, share some truffles with Dominique Saugnac and the team who have created the terrific Terres de Truffes; like Bruno, totally unique. “Since Escoffier there are no great chefs, we are intelligent conductors of orchestras. We take eight products (I assume this includes the truffles) the way a musician takes eight notes, and create a symphony,” he notes. Passionate about his tubers, the way we are about shopping/golf/sending textos, Bruno insists there’s no mystery, that everyone can enjoy them year round and, if they’re careful where they shop, they are affordable. Great! This is what we’ve all been waiting for. Step over the glass-encased truffle garden, filled with earth from Lorgues, and enter the wonderful world of Bruno, coming soon to New York, London, Milan. Terres de Truffes is open all day, fancy a truffle sandwich/tartine for breakfast? They’ll make you anything you want, any time of the day. The menu, created by Bruno and Dominique Saugnac (who actually worked with Alain Ducasse at The Juana!) changes all the time but think in terms of Caviar of Truffles with tomato chutney, blinis and whipped cream (25€). Truffle salad (17€) and Poujarin bread baked with old Comté cheese and black winter truffles. Eggs are scrambled with truffles (20€). Potatoes baked and filled with cream of black truffles (23€) and pigeon is boned, wrapped in puff pastry and truffle-stuffed. On to the cheese: Brie (from Meaux) is truffle-spiked, flowing Saint Marcellin is baked and truffled within an inch of its’ life. And it doesn’t stop at dessert! Apple tart sits on truffled caramel sauce, paired with truffle ice cream (8.50€). Warm chocolate cake has a soft truffle centre (8.50€). Pannacotta, served with truffled apricot jam (8.50€) and iced Amaretto parfait is drizzled with truffled honey. You can buy most of these dishes and desserts to take home and guzzle in the comfort of your own chateau, and while you’re waiting for it to be packed up have a glass of wine at the bar. Chateau la Truffe 2001, a Pomerol, seems appropriate. The décor, in earth tones, is warm and welcoming. The enthusiastic staff well versed in the art of truffles, bring a fragrant basket of their seasonal jewels to your table/the bar. “Take care buying truffles,” Bruno and his team warn. “For example, tuber melanosporum (harvested in the Périgord region of France between November and March), can be mixed, with Chinese truffles, which taste like rubber.” He says that unscrupulous traders roll their truffles in earth, thus adding weight. “And when you’re paying 400€ a kilo, that’s a real sting. Sniff them, don’t hesitate to test their age, tap them with a knife, like the pros; or break the skin with a thumbnail. The inside should be marbled, not chalky,” he explains. Bruno is creating recipes for each of the 32 varieties of black, white, dark brown, grey or white truflles that grow in the oak, beech and chestnut forests of Europe. Belonging to the same family as mushrooms, truffles grow underground, feeding off the roots of the trees. The Alba white truffle – tuber magatum, harvested from October to December – is Bruno’s top truffle tip. “Far superior to the over-hyped black Perigord variety, which have more snob-value than flavour.” The world famous St. Martin’s Fair at Alba, calculated by the lunar calendar to coincide with the beginning of the truffle season in mid-October, welcomes more than 100,000 visitors. Trufflers come to buy tuberous fungus, with its nut-like consistency and pungent aroma that some find sexy, yet others describe as strongly reminiscent of wet old socks! In summer Bruno uses Provence’s white Truffe d’eté or Truffe de Saint-Jean, cheaper than the other varieties. Tuber Aestivum, harvested between May and October, tastes of forest mushrooms. Tuber Uncinatum is gathered in the Dordogne region of France between September and December, has a delightful chocolate aroma. Both are usually available in the Carpentras markets. In some markets, peasants, like furtive drug dealers, sell their bounty from boots of cars, local bars and brasseries. Deals are strictly cash, and undeclared, for complex reasons known only to the insiders in the truffle business. Meanwhile down South: After the glitz and chaos of the Cote d’Azur , the windy roads that lead to Bruno’s restaurant are so empty, it seems like the great escape. Terraced vineyards beckon and the winemakers offer generous tastings of grenache, mourvèdre and syrah based wines. As the narrow lanes twist and turn, Bruno’s stone farmhouse, his temple dedicated to truffles, appears. This chef is to truffles what Imelda Marcos. It’s all larger than life – a truffle theme park with attitude. The house’s vibrant yellow walls are covered with giant frescoes by Milanese artists Giannini and Prato: Arms outstretched, Bruno, surrounded by a dozen top-toqued chefs; Alain Ducasse, Jacques Maximin, Paul Bocuse, Roger Vergé and friends are depicted at a “Last Supper” table, laden with victuals, wine and, bien sur, mountains of shiny black truffles. Behind the farmhouse, olive groves are punctuated with oversized modern sculptures. On the shady terrace is another huge sculpture. No, it’s moving, it’s Bruno, in spotless chef’s whites, all 130 kilos of him. He opens his arms in a gesture of welcome. “I’m Bruno, I’ll tell you what I’m cooking to-day.” His generous 52€ menu changes twice daily, inspired by the seasons and what Bruno finds at the crack of dawn, in Draguignan market. A terrine of rabbit with a jelly…
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Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !