“Your body is not a temple, it’s an amusement park, enjoy the ride.”
— Anthony Bourdain 1956-2018
The former Il Vino d’Enrico Bernardo, on the corner of Boulevard de la Tour Maubourg and rue de la Université, is the new restaurant, caviar bar, concept by the Petrossians – champagne and caviar in a designer marine setting by Marc Hertrich and Nicolas Adnet of Studio MHNA.
Under the heading “Caviar Autrement” are seasonal market driven ingredients, cooked to showcase different caviars, by chef Renaud Ramamourty (ex-Hexagone with Matthieu Pacaud) and über-caviarologue Mikaël Petrossian – who you know from Yoom.
Look for Tagliatelles au caviar Ossetra; Creamy leek tart, caviar Alverta maturé; Soft boiled eggs filled with buttery flavored caviar Daurenki; Potato mille-feuille with delicate Ossetra caviar and langoustine ravioli with shizo and “liquid caviar,” read posh caviar ketchup Petrossian style (you can buy it in the boutique). Desserts include addictive mile high fruit cake, cheesecake and pear tart.
For those who prefer the excellence and purity of the raw product– either at the magnificent black laqueur caviar bar, in the restaurant, or on the small outside terrace– “The Absolute Caviar” is an introduction to Petrossian’s finest – to match with wines, champagnes and vodkas by the glass, bottle or magnum.
“It’s all about tasting the different caviars, that’s our tradition, try before you buy,” insists Mikaël Petrossian. “And the evolution of Petrossian,” he adds.
Across the road, the former first floor restaurant Le 144 above the flagship café/boutique is now “Salons Petrossian,” hosting breakfasts, private parties, les afterworks and introductory caviar workshops.
Lunch formula two dishes €39 – three dishes (€46). A La Carte average spend €84 + wine, shots of the just launched house Guillotine vodka, champagne. Caviar tastings from €39
13 Boulevard de la Tour Maubourg, 7th, Tel: 01 44 11 32 32, Metro: Invalides/La Tour Maubourg. Open 7/7 Valet Parking
Come celebrate Agapé’s Anniversary
Aficionados dub owner Laurent Lapaire, chef Yoshitaka Takayanagi and somm Gabriel Guinnebault “the culinary holy trinity!” And, to mark Agape’s 10th anniversary there’s an an exceptional tasting menu combining 10 years of signature textures, flavors, spices.
According to the market look for: Tartare of Veal, caviar Kristal and grelot spring onions; Asparagus, crushed egg yolk, sardine and caper condiment; Tataki of hay smoked tuna, Daikon Radish, Horseradish Vinaigrette; Grilled red mullet, white asparagus and Bavarian langoustine; Roast Bulgar spiced Brittany pigeon, kale and blette cabbage; Vintage Comté cheese from Bernard Antony. Two desserts include Grand Cru Chocolate “Guanaja”, Vanilla and Coffee, plus Pavlova with Exotic Fruits, Ginger and Lime, Banana Ice Cream.
“Carte Blanche Birthday” menu €149 – with wine pairings €215.
Lunch Formula €52-€72 – Menu Agapé €109-€159
51 Rue Jouffroy d’Abbans, 17th, Metro: Wagram, Tel: 01 42 27 20 18. Closed: Saturday/Sunday
Petit Pergolese – Modern Art Marvelous Food
Albert Corre’s convivial bistro behind Avenue Foch is also an art gallery and sculpture garden exhibiting the chef’s eclectic collection of contemporary and pop art (for sale!) by the likes of Warhol, César, Arman, Peter Anton, and David LaChapelle. Begin with Albert’s signature pâté en croute, or lobster salad with house made truffle vinaigrette. Mains include Petit-Pergo beef tartar, French fries; Sea Bass drizzled with olive oil from Charles Aznavour’s groves; and excellent game in season. Follow with truffled camembert and, to finish, signature soufflé Grand Marnier. Wash down with Château Rollan de By 2009 (€50) or by the glass (€8) The limited edition L’huile d’olive de Charles Aznavour is €50, ask him to sign the bottle – he’s often there!
38 rue Pergolese, 16th, Metro: Argentine, Tel: 01 45 00 23 66. Valet Parking. Closed Saturday-Sunday
Homer – Royal Lobster – at Le Royal Raffles Monceau
Following our recent discovery of Moïse Sfez’s Homer Lobster concept, Sfez presents “Lobster Palace style” in the Long Bar of the RM hotel or on the sunny terrace. Le Lobster Roll original €38 – Lobster Roll Avocado €40 and Truffled Lobster Roll €42. Available until the end of July.
37, avenue Hoche, 8th. Metro: Charles de Gaulle, Etoile. Reservations: 01 42 99 98 50
La Caserne – come on baby light my fire
The former fire station in this pretty cobblestone village – 39 minutes by train from Montparnasse Station – is now a gastronomic restaurant/bar where the owners architect Mathieu Lenorman and entrépreneur José Mahiques have preserved the atmosphere using fire engine red as the base for the décor.
It’s the perfect spot for a bucolic Sunday lunch in the terraced sculpture garden with the sound of church bells and birdsong.
“On weekends we cook traditional French recipes such as roast chicken like my grandma makes, and beef from a Normandy farm”, says young chef Nicolas Haond – who admits that if he hadn’t been a chef his other career choice was to be – a fireman!
Weekdays – Menus from €14-€22.80 : Average spend €35 + wine. Children’s menu Sunday €12. Sunday average €30. We drank Bordeaux Reserve de la Caserne (€5.70 glass : €18 bottle)
59-61 rue de Paris, 78490 Montfort l’Amaury, Tel: 08 05 47 18 18. Closed Monday – Open August. 2kms from the station. Taxi: Mireille Charbonnier, 06 07 73 82 85
Need to know: Maurice Ravel’s extraordinary house Le Belvédère, 1, rue Maurice Ravel, is a maison/musée in homage to the composer (1875-1937) kept as it was when he lived there.
Read all about it!
Book now for Fauchon L’Hotel opening its Haussmannian doors on the 1st of September, on the edge of Place de la Madeleine. Décor by Richard Martinet – gastronomy by Fauchon.
Rech, Alain Ducasse’s iconic fish emporium (created 1925) is evolving; check out chef Xavier Boireau’s Rech n’Roll dishes.
Drouant – founded 1880 – home to the prestigious literary prize Prix Goncourt has a change of chef – Emile Cotte ex-110 Taillevent – and new owners (Gardinier & Fils).