Tasting Bordeaux Red Wines

I’ll confess to a strong bias in favor of Bordeaux red wines. They are, properly aged and savored, among the finest in the world. But there are problems for many who would like to enjoy them. They have gotten very expensive. The classification system is either too complex and out of date (the standard 1855 classification) or too simplistic (number scores). Can’t we make this easier, and more helpful? With your help, I’d like to try. There is simply no substitute for your own properly developed good taste. If a wine is well made, ready to drink and comes from a reliable producer, you’re probably going to enjoy it. So let’s start with some basic, well made Bordeaux wines. In the process, you may discover a wine or two that you hadn’t tried before, one that you like. The Bordelais all seem to have their favorite everyday wines when they are not quaffing Chateau Haut Brion. Why shouldn’t you? You may find that one of the following becomes your everyday favorite, your very own chateau Tuesday. One of them, as a matter of fact, was the favorite wine of a former President of France. You may want to develop your knowledge and appreciation for Bordeaux wines while have a wine tasting with friends. If so, just ask each person to bring a bottle or two. Serve a variety of cheeses (the French usually have three at least) and some fresh French bread or rolls, and you’ve got the makings of a festive sampling. Inexpensive (under $10): I’ll include three wines that are broadly available. Mouton Cadet 1997 ($8.99) is a fine starter Bordeaux, produced by the house of Mouton Rothschild. I’ve always enjoyed it. And the magnum, which sells for around $15, gives two bottles worth of enjoyment for the weekend. Just recap what you don’t finish, and have it with dinner the following night. This is your basic Bordeaux blend, and a very fine value for the money. I’d include in this category Chateau Bonnet, an Entre-deux-Mers made by Andre Lurton ($9.99), a reliable producer of quality wines. The “two seas,” by the way, are the Dordogne and Garonne Rivers east of Bordeaux, and this region lies between them, towards St. Emilion and south of it. Chateau Bonnet also makes a fine white wine (as does Mouton Cadet) for about the same price. Chateau Duplessy ($7) from the Medoc, is well made and a bargain at the price. Again, none of these wines has Chateau Margaux pretensions. They are well made, accessible, and reasonably priced. Reasonable ($10 – $20): Wines in this category include well regarded estate wines from Bordeaux that are produced in some quantity. Three fine wines are 1996 Chateau Greysac ($17.99), 1997 Chateau Patache d’Aux ($18.99), and 1996 Chateau Larose Trintaudon ($19.49). Here you have reliable chateau quality in three wines from the Medoc and Haut Medoc, famous adjoining regions north of Bordeaux. These wines are not part of the 1855 classification, and they are readily available, still at affordable prices. Top Of The Line non-Classified ($20 – $30): Here are three superior wines that are not part of the 1855 classification. If Bordeaux wines were ever reclassified officially, a highly improbable event in my opinion, each of the three would have a claim for inclusion. The 1996 Chateau Meyney from St. Estephe ($27.99) is superbly situated on a high plateau overlooking the Gironde River. It has always been one of my favorites for quality and value. The same could certainly be said for the 1996 Chateau Poujeaux ($25.99) from Moulis in the Medoc. This wine was said to be the every day favorite of Georges Pompidou when he was President of France with, presumably, quite a base of wines from which to select. It has always been regarded with respect by Bordeaux producers. The third wine, 1995 Chasse Spleen ($29.99) , also from Moulis in the Medoc, pleases because it is well and reliably made, despite its rather droll name (“drive away cares”). I think you’ll savor it. This does not, by a long shot, exhaust the listing that could be made of Bordeaux wines that are well made, and still affordable. Chateau Clarke, Chateau La Tour Figeac from St. Emilion, one of my favorites, and Chateau Vieux Robin could all be included. There are many, many more fine wines to be discovered, good Bordeaux red wines whose prices are increasing, perhaps, but are not yet in the stratosphere. For those of you who want to compare notes, we’ll be sharing tasting notes of the 1997 Mouton Cadet red on the wine chat scheduled for next May 1st. We’ll talk about more affordable Bordeaux red wines then. Then, later, we’ll tackle the 1855 wine classification, vintage years, and the regions of Bordeaux. If you enjoyed this article, you’ll love our ongoing discussion of French Food and Wine! Bill Shepard learned to love the wines of Bordeaux when he served as Consul General there. Copyright (c) 2000, Paris New Media, LLC