Take in the Cluny

One of the world’s best examples of medieval art is included in a fifteenth century building on the site of the Roman-Gallo baths.

Cluny was once the home of Mary Tudor, widow of Louis XII. The building is magnificently preserved and is almost on the spot where the first part of the city was built. The remains of that period, and later centuries, are waiting to be rediscovered. It is also the home of The Unicorn Tapestries, brought to light in the writings of George Sand.

Take in the Cluny. It’s well worth it. As is the medieval mansion that houses the remains. It should be on your list of ‘musts’. You won’t be disappointed.

In order to appreciate all the exhibits we recommend at least 2 hours. During the warmer months you may want to spend time in the garden, but even if you are visiting indoors there are places to sit and relax. You may be there when there is a concert or lecture. That too gives you time to relax.

For history buffs, plan a whole afternoon. My legs got tired before my quest for information was over!

Leave the Unicorn Tapestries for the end of your visit. A hand guide and a seat make the viewing more comfortable.

Gallic Roman Baths

The Mansion of the Abbots of Cluny

Collections: Sculpture, paintings, religious artifacts, goldsmith works and enamels, coins, stained glass, ceramics, ironwork, leather work, ivories, alabaster carvings, and stone, chalices, fabrics, embroideries.

               There is also a gallery of Kings of Judah, circa 1220.  They were unearthed in Paris, behind the Opera.

     Models:

                    The Roman baths

                     Hotel de Cluny

     Masterpieces: Visigoth crowns, tapestries, sculpture from Notre Dame, Bookbinding boards, altar pieces and hangings.

     Unicorn Tapestries: These are in one room and can be easily seen. Their themes include Taste, Learning, Sight, Smell, Touch and Desire. The Unicorn has been interpreted as Religious, a Christ-figure, and as a lover.

                     Heads from St Denis, Capitals from Catelonia, Apostles from Ste-Chapelle (13th century), Sculptures from Poissy, Pillars, Chests, Tombstones, Choir stalls and a 15th century chapel.

Museum Shop:

Open 9:15am – 6pm. Closed Tuesdays. Tel: 01 53 73 78 22

            There is a small but well stocked gift shop with tapestries, cards and excellent books for children. I saw only French language books.

                 You’ll need time to digest the displays. Go early when you are rested. Early Sunday may be a good day when the museum is uncrowded and the admission price is lower. Watch for steps that are not always obvious.

   This is a must for people of all ages but especially for the young. I sat examining the tapestries and was struck by a young man with two little girls under the age of ten. He painstakingly pointed out all the things about the Unicorn tapestries, their age, manufacturing techniques, the colors and the interpretations. The two girls were rapt in the explanation and stared at the works with that serious, wide eyed stare of an interested child. I had a feeling that the father’s explanation would be long remembered. It helped me realize that this museum was good for people of all ages. Maybe you’ll take your children or grandchildren.

        The courtyard draws you in. It is a perfect architectural example of 16th century design. It was erected by Jacques d’Amboise Abbot of Cluny. The cobblestone Cour d’Honneur contains flamboyant Gothic building wings with seashell motifs, popular at that time. There are gargoyles and turreted walls with dormer windows.  It was seized during the Revolution, rented in 1833 and bought by the government in 1842.

The Roman Baths date to 200 AD and included a Palestra, a tepidarium, caldarium and frigidarium to close the pores in cold water.  It was once decorated with ancient fish prows of Paris boatmen. The area around the building is authentic Middle Ages, even though the gardens were rebuilt in the year 2000. It is neat, trim and perfect for photography in the shade of chestnut and sycamore trees.

I walked past the Cluny hundreds of times but only when I entered did I realize what I had missed.

       Whenever you have enough time to walk through without rushing.

6 Pl. Paul-Painleve

Paris 70005

Daily from 9:15am to 5:45pm

Closed Tuesdays.

Garden open 8am or 9am depending on the day

                                        To 5:30 in winter

                                              9:30 in summer

 5.50 euros for adults   4 euros on Sunday

 4 euros for those age 18-25

 Free for children under 17

You can walk to the Museum from the Notre Dame area or from the RER station at St. Germain and St.  Michel.

      Buses : 21, 27, 38, 63, 85, 86, 87

Parking: Blvd. St. Germain, Pl. Edmond Rostand

                Note: It is an easy place to get to without a car.

Tours: Saturday 3:30pm

             Guided visits, groups children and family tours.

             There are also music and medieval poetry sessions in season.

                     Call: 01 53 73 78 16

There are aids for the visually handicapped in the form of models and tactile reading stands for tapestries like The Grape Harvest and the Lady and the Unicorn.

Near the entrance. Museum personnel can direct you.