Itineraires & Agape-Champagne Pol Roger BUZZ

By Margaret Kemp

Itineraires

Sylvain Sendra calls his neo-bistro Itineraires, remembering the schedules and itineraries of his globe-trotting with Sarah before they realised their dream, first at Temps au Temps, rue Paul Bert, now at their hip left-bank address.

In the Languedoc region, 20 kilometers north of Montpellier, Sendra discovered the Vignerons de l'AOC Pic Saint-Loup, passionate winemakers who came to Paris last week to introduce their wines, their terroir, their fascinating history and tempt afficiandoes into a bit of oenotourism in their picturesque region.

36 Vues du Pic St-Loup.If it sounds familiar you may have seen Jacques Rivette's film Around a Small Mountain -36 Vues du Pic Saint Loup screened in competition at the Venice Film Festival last September – starring Jane Birkin and Serge Castellito, mostly shot at St. Jean de Fos where Jane no doubt stocked up with local pottery as well as some excellent wine.

Pic Saint-Loup's vineyards grow mostly Syrah, Mourvédre and Grenache vines.  If you like Rhone reds you'll appreciate Pic Saint-Loup and at around 10€ a bottle direct from the Chateaux, they're not expensive.

To match Pic Saint Loup wines Sendra served Pot au Feu de Foie Gras paired with the dry white Cuvée Saint Agnes 2008. Then the red 2005 “Un Peu de Toi” made by Fabien Reboul at Chateau Valflanès with slow-cooked thick juicy Côte de Porc from the Royal farms at Berkshire, UK, Sendra added feather-light herb and pumpkin gnocchi. Tart Chocolat glace espresso to finish went well with the organic white Mas Bruguiere 2008. There were about 40 wines to taste - well somebody has to.

Get up close and personal with Pic Saint-Loup and its aromatic wines, at the official site of the region's vignerons, where you'll find links for both French and English versions: www.pic-saint-loup.com

Itineraires

5 rue de Pontoise, 5th

Metro: Maubert-Mutualite

T: 01 46 33 60 11

29€ two dishes 39€ three dishes

Closed Sun-Mon

Check out http://www.amusecake.com this chick is the dessert fairy.

Champagne Pol Roger Launch Their Vintage 2000 at Agapé

In March 2008,  a trio of hot-shot young culinary mavericks launched Agapé an elegant “grown-up” set-up in the 17th at the far end of Avenue Wagram. The guys came well trained, having just left Arpege, Alain Passard's Michelin 3-star gig. Success came fast for Laurent Lapaire, Olivier Le Franc and chef Bertrand Grébaut, by March 2009 they notched up a Michelin star and excellent reviews, although many found the concept a little pretentious and way too expensive. Rather in the same way Martin Chirac finds his grandmother Bernie, “a bit too snobby”.  Dark sober décor, it's a serious spot for the rich and famous – perfect for the “Bernies” of this world.

So no better place than Agapé for Champagne Pol Roger to launch their Vintage 2000. The elegant President-du Directoire, Patrice Noyelle recalled that, “2000 was a good year for weather, a little rainy but August was sunny and produced a fruity aromatic and delicious vintage”. How on earth can Monsieur Noyelle remember, he's French it's only the English that talk about the weather. Well Pol Roger (1849-1899) really liked the English and Sir Winston Churchill really liked his Sir Winston Churchill Cuvée, so don't let's fuss on about the weather Mr Worthington. Churchill is rumoured to have said: “Meeting FDR was like opening your first bottle of Pol Roger, knowing him was like drinking it”.

Chef Grebaut, who looks achingly young, paired Pol Roger Vintage 2000 with Croustillantes Comté-Cumin (puff pastry cheese straws). With the Brut Vintage 1998 he did wafer thin carpaccio of lightly smoked Hugo Desnoyer veal, with slices of oyster and parmesan squares. The main, St. Jacques de Brest, mousseline de potiron, clémentine, grilled sésame came with Brut Vintage 1996. Bernard Anthony's Saint Nectaire Fermier had a lovely straw flavour, paired with home-made bread and Jean-Yves Bordier's addictive butter. Brut Vintage 1993 was served with dessert: a delicate composition of crème au yuzu, read Japanese citrus fruit, and sarrasin shortcake with pear-ginger sorbet.

Agapé

51 rue Jouffrey-d'Abbans, 17th

Metro: Wagram

T: 01 42 27 20 18

www.agape-paris.fr

Shut Sat-Sun

Valet Parking

 

Pol Roger & Cie,

1 rue Henri Le Large, 51200, Epernay,

“The Most Drinkable Address in the World”

T: 03 26 59 58 00

www.polroger.com

 

And Paris Fooding Winners Are...

FOODING® 2009 de la meilleure cuisinière
YAM’TCHA
Adeline Grattard
4, r. Sauval 75001 PARIS

PRIX FOODING®  2009 du meilleur cuisinier
FRENCHIE
Grégory Marchand
5, r. du Nil 75002 PARIS

PRIX FOODING® 2009 du meilleur décor
DERRIERE
Mourad et Akim Mazouz
69, r. des Gravilliers 75003 PARIS

PRIX FOODING® d'honneur 2009
William Ledeuil, Paris

PRIX FOODING® d’amour 2009
CAFFE DEI CIOPPI
Francesca et Federico Mancioppi
159, r. du Faubourg Saint Antoine 75011 PARIS

PRIX FOODING®  2009 du meilleur cuisinier
FRENCHIE
Grégory Marchand
5, r. du Nil 75002 PARIS

PRIX FOODING® 2009 du meilleur décor
DERRIERE
Mourad et Akim Mazouz
69, r. des Gravilliers 75003 PARIS

PRIX FOODING® d’amour 2009
CAFFE DEI CIOPPI
Francesca et Federico Mancioppi
159, r. du Faubourg Saint Antoine 75011 PARIS

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