Chiracs Farewell to Farms
The 44th annual Salon de l’Agriculture has just closed its doors at the Porte de Versailles in Paris where some 600,000 visitors enjoyed this “largest farm of France” and all that comes with it -- more than 3 acres of exhibits with every breed of cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, fish and fowl. In other words, anything that walks, swims, waddles or flies and ends up on the French dinner table. Not to mention 9 breeds of draught horses, and the many mules and donkeys, all brushed and polished to a high gloss. Literally -- I saw a farmer dust and spit-polish the horns of a prize cow, ending with a snap of the cloth just like the best of shoe shiners.
This gigantic Salon, spread over several buildings, has 650 exhibitors from all regions of France, including 179 winegrowers, and 50 restaurants that cater to every purse and every whim. It’s the farm in the city: a showplace for the biggest and the best in farm animals, a petting zoo, a forum for fish farming and aquaculture, for equestrian tourism, for organic farming, for wind and solar energy, horticulture, food processing and on and on. The French are deeply attached to their “terroir” and will defend tooth and nail the farming methods of their fathers and grandfathers, and of course the indefensible subsidies that allow these methods to continue. And they will be only too happy to sample the products of these methods: the ham, the lamb, the beef, the cheese, the charcuterie, the foie gras - the entire “made in France” gamut of food that is presented at the Salon and offered freely at every turn. The best in the world, all seem to agree. They may have a point but, frankly, when it comes to beef yours truly thinks the Argentines and the Americans have it. Hands down.
For 10 days in March, the Salon is THE ticket in Paris. In attendance, it easily outperforms Fashion Week and Rolland Garros, perhaps because this is a family affair. Lots of children here, who love to stroke and pet the merchandise before they follow their parents in tasting every tidbit offered. They may wash theirs down with milk or organic apple juice while their parents reach for the wine, but all seem to fill up happily. Farms are about food, after all, so why be shy. For entertainment, there’s nothing like animals to delight the crowd. There’s the truffle dog digging up truffles, the sheepdog rounding up sheep, and a dozen piglets pushing and pulling the life out of a huge sow. While children are drawn to the smaller animals, adults seem mesmerized by the powerful bulls whose enormous strength seems barely restrained by the iron chain that attaches them to the wall.
The Salon de l’Agriculture draws large crowds and a huge television audience and, inevitably, a swarm of politicians. This being a presidential election year, the place was dense with politicians fighting for face time on national television. Cushioned by their entourage and careful to avoid each other, they were all eager to taste and toast in front of cameras and make the usual promises. “If I am elected” said contender Nicolas Sarkozy, “I will allow advertising for wines again in France.” Ségolène Royal came and went without impressing the farmers, who are traditionally to the right.
And then there was First Farmer Jacques Chirac, who delared: “France will stand firm against British Peter Mandelson (European Commissioner of Commerce) who favors the United States in his negotiations with the World Trade Commission.” It is no secret that French farmers roundly detest “Brussels” where their future is decided by bureaucrats, nor is it a secret that Chirac, who was Minister of Agriculture under Georges Pompidou, is the farmers’ friend and defender.
He has been coming to the Salon de l’Agriculture for 35 years now, and is always warmly received. He is never in a hurry and spent nearly 5 hours at the Salon this year, the last one in his political life. He eats and drinks everything that is offered to him, and seems genuinely to enjoy himself. “How much does she weigh?” he asks about a big cow. “Bravo!” and an affectionate pat on a huge behind before he moves on to the next stall and the next question or comment. He knows how to talk about cattle and pigs and fowl, and is said to have discussed recipes along the way. Unlike his rather stiff appearance at formal occasions and his poor performance as a public speaker, among the farm crowd Chirac seems totally at ease. He happily stops for photographs and does not hesitate to kiss a piglet or take one in his arms. Granted, he kisses babies too but gives the impression that he is more comfortable with animals.
Before leaving, he was heard to congratulate the organizers of this “superb Salon that does great honor to French agriculture and to France.” Not bad for his farewell to farms, and he may even mean it. But even it he didn’t, he will be missed here. Many are those who see Chirac’s agricultural policies as protectionist and damaging to emerging countries who can supply France with corn or other crops at a fraction of the subsidized price in France, but you won’t see them here at the Salon. For 35 years Chirac has obstinately defended the French family farm and its traditional ways and the farmers know there is no one in the current presidential line-up who can fill his shoes. In the complex world of globalization and the newly extended Europe of 27 member-nations, the survival of the French family farm is by no means a sure thing.
