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Bistro Volnay, Zo & Domic BUZZ

By Margaret Kemp

You'll love Bistro Volnay, located in a tall handsome 1930's space near Place Vendome. The chic neo-Viennese style décor showcases wine bottles, artfully arranged, the long bar has clients' names inscribed on gold tags. And the loos! You can always tell how clean the kitchen is by the state of the lavs, n'est pas? These are red, red, red, red, punctuated with black and white photos of Serge Gainsbourg in his bath.

Magali and Delphine, the new owners, will hand you the menu. Peer into the spotless kitchen, see what chef Cedric Lefèvre's (ex-Chez Michel) cooking. His carte changes daily, is short and to the point, an hommage to the legendary route des vins that is Volnay, Burgundy. a showcase for fine French regional products.

Superb chef sommelier Magali has created an impressive wine list and talks lovingly of time spent in the vineyards of California. Try a Volnay 1er cru Lucien Muzard Les Chenins 2007 60€, wines are also by the glass to match Foie gras maison, crème de pruneaux d'Agen à l'Armagnac or tasty Paté de campagne du Bistro, with accompaniments.

Snails, croustillant of pigs feet, chunky tartare of salmon. Last Wednesday there were plump veal kidney's simply roasted in their own fat. Sweetbreads with spring asparagus and morilles mushrooms. Limousin veal breast is slow cooked. Filet de rascasse and garlicky piperade goes nicely with a shower of crunchy fresh vegetables. Stunning pudds include a wicked Apple and Calvados Clafouti with prune ice cream, made à la minute by Pacojet. Coffee and warm madeleines on the terrace. A cigar if you do.

Bistro Volnay,

8 rue Volney, 8th (Metro: Opera)

T: 01 42 61 06 65

Lunch 24€ +

Menu 38€ + A La Carte

Shut Sat-Sun

www.bistrovolnay.com

The paint's barely dry on the chic new décor of Domic created by architect and TV star Philippe Demougeot (Question Maison. France 5 Sunday mornings). You're at the Eiffel Tower end of rue Saint Dominique, next door to the Assemblée Nationale, across from the Polish Embassy and yes that is André Wadja in the corner.

The welcome from two Russian ladies, both called Tania, is as sparkling as the Eiffel Tower at night. To the right is Dimitri the barman, his house cocktail is a mean Margarita. Upstairs, the restaurant seats 40, note the sexy private dining room has its' own door, so discretion assured darling when you dine with you know who.The owners are experienced restaurateurs, with addresses in Moscow, St. Petersburg and are looking towards London.

Chef Patrick See the REAL Europe with Rail EuropeMaslak says the menu is a tour du monde of his favourite dishes in each country he has worked. And how unusual is this? The wife's in the kitchen with him, and they still love each other. Go figure.

The ladies who do will find the best freshest salad Semiramis ever, dressing on the side, chunks of crumbly feta, olives, sucrine, lettuce hearts, beefsteak tomatoes, no calories. Bread is Armenian, just flour and water, keeps hot dishes hot and cold, cold. Lentil soup or Borscht, stuffed vegetables, all light and bright.

Drink Sancerre 2007 white by the glass (7€) or take chef's advise and order vodkas. “I learned to drink with the Russsians, I can teach you!” he grins. Russian style they can bring tastes of everything to the table, say, spicy roast lamb, the house signature Filet Mignon de Veau au Gorgonzola. Sot L'y Laisse of tender turkey (you know those little knobs at the back of the bird), Salmon cooked on the wood fire, King prawns with Pommes Grenailles are rolled in fragrant thyme and olive oil. Don't miss chef's Tiramisu, his Polish mother's recipe, or, for the ladies who do, strawberries a l'Amaretto. A touch of discreet music in the background, finish downstairs in the bar with Dimitri. “Come and have drinks with me”, invites the adorable Tania. Ask her to tell you the story of her life – it's worth it and so is Domic. Na Zdrovia!

Domic

34 rue Saint Dominique, 7th (Metro: Invalides)

T: 01 45 51 51 69

(no site yet)

Closed Sun-Mon

Average Spend Lunch – 32€ + wine

Dinner – 46€ + wine

The first question everyone ask partners Olivier Haski and Micael Memmi is, why Zo? “Why not?” they reply. “It means elephant in Japanese, is a symbol of good luck; a play on words”. So now you know. The achingly zen space has minimal Asiatic décor, great photos of “New York, New York” decorate the walls. Located across from the Elysée Palace (I'm not allowed to say if you know who eats there!) when they studied their clientele H & M realised the handsome hedgies and their hedgehogs would go for cutting edge menus, low fat Japanese, sunny Mediterranean cuisine.

Dishes such as the addictive signature starter Salade d'Algues and sesame. Tomato and goat's cheese tart. Velouté of mushrooms and truffles: Roquette and artichoke salad with parmesan. Pasta dishes, crispy piping hot pizzettas, tartares and stunning cheeseburgers. “Some just come for a salad and Saint Marcellin, or pop in for a green tea ice cream”, says Haski.

Turn the page the menu goes Japanese, there's a sushi master in the kitchen who'll make you a mean Yoko Ono (assortment of 14 sahimis and tuna). He'll make Makimotos, Spring Makis and delicious Temaki. Drink hot sake, Zo shots, cocktails or have sex on the beach (don't ask). There's a nice wine list, don't forget Friday night is girlie night 40€ with a special menu and all the champagne you can sink. Clooney and the boys will meet you outside afterwards.

Zo

13 rue de Montalivet, 8th (Metro: Miromesnil/Madeleine)

T: 01 42 65 18 18

www.restaurantzo.com

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