Armagnac — The Brandy of d’Artagnan

   1813  
Other wine regions have their wine societies. But it is in Gascony, that the Armagnac lovers dress up in high boots and plumed hats, and it is rumored that Cardinal Richelieu and the King of France have been known to appear at their gatherings. That’s as it should be. Armagnac is the brandy of Gascony, and has been distilled since the early years of the 15th century. As such, it was surely a favorite of D’Artagnan (actually Charles de Batz, born in 1615 at the Chateau de Castelmore near Eauze). What is the difference between armagnac and cognac? There are several, of which the most striking is that armagnac is distilled just once, while cognac is distilled twice. As such, it is said that armagnac better retains its rich, somewhat earthy flavors. I would add to that main difference, several others. The climate in Gascony is ruder than the maritime climate of the Charente region where cognac is made. Sugar is not added to armagnac. The soil in Gascony is sandy, whereas the soil in the Charentes tends towards chalk. All of this has meant for many lovers of brandy (a generic term meaning “burnt wine”) that good armagnac, although very hard to find, at least rivals the best cognac in quality and flavor. Some prefer it. Armagnac comes from the Departements of Gers and the Landes in the French Southwest. Like cognac, it is distilled from white wine grapes of indifferent quality. Bas Armagnac comes from the Landes, and is said to be rather fine, and spicier than armagnac, whose subcategories include Tenareze and Haut Armagnac (both from the Gers). Each has their champions. You decide which you like best. It is a potent drink. The minimum alcoholic content by law is 40% (80 proof), which may be obtained by natural aging, or, more usually, is speeded up by the cellar master. The categories are V. S. (at least 2 years old); V. O. , V. S. O. P. or Reserve (at least 5 years old), X. O., Extra, Napoleon or Vieille Reserve (at least 6 years old), and Hors d’Age (at least 10 years old). The older the armagnac, generally the smoother and better quality, although that of course depends mainly upon the maker of the spirit. Let’s take a closer look at the region, and some of the better producers. They all have tastings. (You’ll have your own favorites — there are hundreds to choose from.) Eauze in the Landes is the center of Bas Armagnac. I recommend the Chateau du Tariquet, which also produces a good quality, inexpensive white table wine. You might also try Chateau Millet, or the Chevalier Gascon cooperative. At Condom, a center of production in the Tenareze district of the Gers, a landmark armagnac producer is the Chateau de Larressingle a few kilometers from town. This was built by the Bishops of Condom in 1250. Janneau, one of the largest producers, is here. So is the Chateau de Maillac. For gourmets, the Le Cordellier Restaurant, a former monastery, is where Jean Louis Palladin, formerly of the Watergate and now of Las Vegas, got his start. No, the locals are unaware of the reason for their town’s fame in the English-speaking world! At Nerac en Albret north of Condom, just off the A62 Autoroute between Bordeaux and Toulouse, one finds a former key French royal town bypassed by the centuries. Henry IV spent his boyhood here. His family castle still exists, as does the beautiful Parc de la Garenne bordering the river, said to have been a stalking ground for the real Queen Margot. This is a town for food lovers. Armagnac, pork, foie gras, confit de canard, they are all here, and calories are never counted. I’ve saved the best for last. In Auch in the Gers, Armagnac de Montal is a source of pride. The town itself boasts a grand statue of D’Artagnan. The Hotel de France, Place de la Liberation, is surely the home of the finest in Gascon cooking. The Cathedrale de Sainte Marie is worth a trip to the region. Hundreds of wooden statues were carved in the choir stalls by a pupil of Michelangelo. Like Chenanceau Castle in the Loire region, it was saved from destruction by fire during the French Revolution by a miracle. A member of the crowd looked at the carvings, and said that “no aristocrat could have carved them — the faces of the people are too honest.” And so the finest wooden sculpture in the provinces of France was saved for us all to enjoy. Here are the prices of some armagnac found in the Washington area. Let us know what you like best, and how you compare them with cognac. Lagarde Bas Armagnac Reserve ($38); Lagarde Bas Armagnac ($20); Cerbois Reserve ($35); Cerbois V. S. O. P. ($25); Marquis de Montesquiou ($26). I found no Hors d ‘Age armagnacs for sale in an afternoon’s outing. Perhaps this shows that armagnac is not yet so well known as cognac. All of you admirers of D’Artagnan and the Three Musketeers will, I am sure, change that, Parbleu! If you enjoyed this article, you’ll love our ongoing discussion of French Food and Wine! Bill Shepard learned to love the wines of France when he served as Consul General there. You can read more about his life as a consul in Can the U.S. Embassy Help in a Crisis? Copyright (c) 2000, Paris New Media, L.L.C.
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