BonjourParis

18th Arr

Paris - 18th Arrondissement

As far away from the center of the city (a good 30 minute metro ride -- 60 minutes round trip) a place can be and still be in Paris, the 18th arrondissement remains a must-visit for many tourists. Here one can find Montmartre, with place de Tertre and its crank-em-out artists -- see the square, but save your money for Espace Dali at nearby 11 rue Poulbot to check out the Salvador's surrealist sculptures; or head to 12 rue Cortot to visit the former home of Renoir and Utrillow, now the Musée de Montmartre, and worth a quickie 30 minutes in and out for a hat's off to the artists and Bohemians who made this area what it is today); at the very top of the butte, the white-domed Sacré-Coeur Basilica awaits with pickpockets that will follow you all the way back down the hill to place Pigalle, where the rotating, blinking red neon windmill of Le Moulin Rougee beckons and sixty Doris Girls kick their long legs to tempt one into afterward visiting the seedier side of Paris -- the Red Light District, which bursts at the seams along nearby Boulevard de Clichy; for the less risque tourists, a visit to Musée de l'Erotisme at 72 Boulevard de Clichy might be in order. Whew. That's a lot of energy to expel in this visit. So, to start, take the métro to Abbesses, then get off and hike the spiraling, muscle-cramping staircase that is wildly painted by local artists, and if your legs can take it, it's worth the hike, if for no other reason than to say you've been there. Once spewed out at almost-the-top of the hill, search for Square Jehan Rictus, where you'll find a place to rest and the "I Love You" Mural (these words will be translated on the wall in over 300 languages). Then elbow your way up to Sacré-Coeur and either spend €4.50 entering, or spend the same for a coca-cola, then sit on the steps and watch the other tourists checking out the beautiful Paris skyline ahead. For the lazy, stand in line for the Funicular -- the little sky tram that zips you right up to the top of the butte with the use of a metro ticket.


Other things to consider doing once here: Head to rue Lepic to locate the Moulin Radet and the Moulin de la Galette -- the two last windmills of the area -- and simply marvel at the charming neighborhood. Visit the Montmarte vineyard. Stroll though the Montmartre Cemetery because it's gorgeous (Stendhal and Degas rest here), but not worth the trip alone unless your hotel or apartment is in the 18th, or this is your second visit to Paris and you're Louvre'd out. And shop. Porte de Clignancourt (Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen) is the King of Flea Markets in Paris (open weekends and Monday, from 7-7), and those new to shopping here should start at rue des Rosiers, where the more touristy Marche Vernaisson sells everything from bric-a-brac to the occasional great find; the Marche Serpette and Paul Bert is a smidge less touristy, and hence, more Parisians will be sniffing the bistro and gardening items strewn about in the chaos; the Marche Biron focuses on higher quality finds (and hence, a higher price); for those searching for French linens, look no further than Marche Cambo; and the March Malassis, with its dome set forth to greet the eager shopper, offers up doodads from the 1900's and other delicious secrets; the newest market, the Marche Dauphine offers up exquisite antiques under a glass roof. The shopping is great here, but it isn't for the feint of heart, and do expect a full day, e.g., don't try to fit in a visit to the Eiffel Tower on the same day as a visit to Porte de Clignancourt.