The Wines of Gevrey-Chambertin and Morey-St. Denis

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The Wines of Gevrey-Chambertin and Morey-St. Denis
Gevrey-Chambertin is an enchanting entry into the world of great wines of Burgundy. As you drive along the tiny Route des Grands Crus, D-122, you pass through the small town of Gevrey-Chambertin itself, and you’ll need to slow down. Slow way down, and stop from time to time. You will pass all of the nine grand cru vineyards of Gevrey-Chambertin. On the left, Mazis-Chambertin is succeeded by Chapelle-Chambertin, Griotte-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin and Mazoyeres-Chambertin, while on your right, Ruchottes-Chambertin (and part of the Mazi-Chambertin vineyard) give way to Chambertin-Clos de Beze, then Chambertin itself, and Latricières-Chambertin. I relish the tradition that the name Chambertin came from a medieval peasant owner, Bertin, and that “Champ de Bertin” (“Bertin’s Field”) became the elegant grand cru Chambertin. Perhaps the legend is true. It ought to be. The landscape is magnificent, and some signs will help the visitor locate each vineyard. However, unlike the Bordeaux vineyards, the scale seems much smaller, and the secrets a bit more hidden. Without some guidance, it is almost impossible to know exactly which proprietor owns a vineyard parcel. The small towns of Burgundy will welcome you, and in the celebrated towns you will find scattered wine merchants whose doors will be open and who will offer some help, but the wise visitor makes arrangements in advance. It will help you enormously to decide, first, which towns you wish to drive through, and where you want to stop and get a personal idea of the vineyards and the growing and production process from a local producer. That will take some advance planning. Fortunately, most (but not all) Burgundy wine estates welcome visitors, but a prior appointment is usually required. When you have made your arrangements, it will probably also be possible to buy wines at the estate. Respect the customary long French lunch hour, and try not to schedule your visit for an inconvenient moment, such as harvest time, and you will surely have a warm welcome throughout the Cote d’Or. I will include addresses, telephone and FAX numbers for the properties suggested. Unlike the Bordeaux area, however, it is a rare Burgundian wine estate that has a website and the convenience of email. (The large houses in Beaune are an exception to this rule.) Even the famous Domaine de la Romanee Conti in Vosne-Romanee is not an exception. In summer 2002, for example, I used a website search engine to try to locate “DRC,” and all that came up with was “Democratic Republic of the Congo,” which is hardly the same thing. While visiting Gevrey-Chambertin, take some time to visit the byways of the town and its vineyards. There are a number of superior premier crus here, such as Clos Saint-Jacques, Les Cazetiers, Etournelles, and Combe au Moine. They tend to come from the slope above the village itself, before you get to the grand crus. In some years, they approach the far pricier grand crus in quality. This would be a fine walk after a luncheon in town. Just go along the hillside road and seek out these excellent vineyards, for your own personal discovery. They are very much worth seeking out, and are usually available for half the price or less of the grand cru. Do not let the best be the enemy of the good. There is also an ocean of “village appellation” Gevrey-Chambertin wine, mostly from the flat area below the hillsides. All things considered, in getting to know Chambertin wines you might wish to get a first impression of their flavors with this less expensive, village appellation. I have done this with Gevrey-Chambertin wines bottled by both Domaine Leclerc and Bouchard. Buy three bottles, then try them a few months apart, and see how your taste develops. These will be ready to drink far earlier than the grand crus. I noted they were perfect for drinking just three years after their vintage date, when the far more expensive grand and premier crus would still have been in their infancy.The classified wines of Gevrey-Chambertin are expansive, full-bodied wines. That may be why the Emperor Napoleon, no wine connoisseur, is said to have enjoyed his glass of Chambertin cut with water! These wines often have a fruit taste. I have always thought the Griotte-Chambertin, for example, did have a very pleasant, deep cherry taste, justifying the wine’s name, for griotte is said to refer to a type of cherry. I greatly enjoyed a bottle of 1988 Jadot Chapelle-Chambertin five years after its bottling, which was probably a bit early, for my notes read “deep, but still oaky.” Its wonderful raspberry flavor was apparent, a pleasure to drink. I have had earlier Chambertins, including the landmark 1969 made by Alexis Lichine. Drunk eight years after bottling, it was “a mellow, assertive burgundy with a fine bouquet.” A 1983 Chambertin by Quillardet was similarly rich and enjoyable. For your visit in Geverey-Chambertin, I’ll start with one of my favorite producers: the Domaine Armand Rousseau, at 1, rue Aumonerie, 21220 Gevrey-Chambertin (telephone: 03-80-34-30-55: FAX 03-80-58-50-25).  The preponderance of Rousseau’s holdings are in Gevrey-Chambertin, and include a number of the grand crus, such as Chambertin and Chambertin-Clos de Beze. Rousseau is well regarded by his fellow vintners, and I have been told by authorities in other communes of the Côte d’Or that Armand Rousseau’s Chambertin wines are to be relied upon for quality. Here are three other fine producers who are located at Gevrey-Chambertin (several have acreage in other parts of the Cote d’Or as well): The Domaine Drouhin-Larose, 20 rue Gaizot, 21220 Gevrey-Chambertin (telephone: 03-80-34-31-49: FAX 03-80-51-83-70), for example, has fine properties not only in Gevrey-Chambertin (at Chambertin-Clos de Beze, Latricières-Chambertin, Mazi-Chambertin and Chapelle-Chambertin), but at Clos de Vougeot as well. Bourée Père et Fils, at 13 route de Beaune, 21220 Gevrey-Chambertin (telephone: 03-80-34-30-25: FAX 03-80-58-50-25), produces a spectrum of largely premier cru offerings from Gevrey-Chambertin and throughout the Côte de Nuits. The Domaine Pierre Damoy, at 11, rue Marechale De Lattre de Tassigny, 21220 Gevrey-Chambertin (telephone: 03-80-34-30-47: FAX 03-80-58-54-79) has the largest single holding of Chambertin-Clos de Beze. In Morey-St.-Denis, the Route des Grands Crus marks a dividing line between grand and premier cru vineyards. On the left hand side of the road, driving south, one passes Les Charrieres, Les Millandes, Les Ruchots, and other well regarded premier crus. On the right, towards the sloping hillside, the grands crus are to be found. You will want to turn right at the village and proceed north for a mile or so to discover Clos de la Roche and Clos St.-Denis. The other…
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