The Wines of Alsace

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One of my favorite wine memories came from a bicycle trip through Alsace some forty years ago. It was a hot summer day, and we cycled through picturesque villages, some with storks nesting on the roofs of half-timbered houses. We came to the town of Riquewihr, and were welcomed at what local vintners called the “Riquewihr métro:” caves where the thirsty traveler could enjoy a cool, refreshing glass of Alsatian white wine. I’m glad to say that the countryside remains scenic, with many attractions ranging from the Haut Koenigsberg castle, to the Wine Route that trails through the district from Thann to Marlenheim. It is a region of sad history, glorious wines and food, superb restaurants, and medieval villages. My favorite little town, Riquewihr, is on a par with St. Emilion for its beauty and history. The very bottles are distinctive, long and elegant. A couple of these bottles in a cooler filled with ice will quickly put your guests in a festive mood. And well they should be, for these wines go perfectly with summer and fall fare. Let’s talk about them, and sort out the varieties. For the taste of Alsace, I would start off with a bottle of Gentil from Hugel, a leading vintner of Alsatian wines (since 1639) and, I confess, my own favorite. Etienne Hugel confirms my judgment that this wine, which sells in the Washington area for $8 a bottle, is the best way to get to appreciate fine Alsatian wines. It is a blend, and a majority of that blend is said to be from the “noble grapes,”Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Sylvaner. He also counsels that recent vintages have been outstanding, so that any Alsatian wine from a good vintner between 1995 and 1998 would be of good quality. Gewurztraminer (“spicy traminer”) is becoming well known. It is the wine to serve when you want to complement spicier dishes, like Thai, Cajun, or Chinese spicy dishes (Szechwan or hotpot). It would also go well with curried dishes. We have always liked Sylvaner, but have sometimes had trouble finding it. It is a lighter style wine. When we lived in New England, we thought it went perfectly with fried clams or quahogs. For many, Riesling is a summit, a sturdy and complex wine that can be served with a variety of foods, including the range of nobler fish (swordfish, salmon, perhaps turbot, but you might prefer a Sylvaner for this more delicate flavor). It will also go well, breaking the rules, with a variety of game, from game birds to boar. Pinot Gris is another substantial, quality wine that can be served with more complex dishes. Try it with truffled dishes, or those featuring your favorite mushrooms. This is a first-rate varietal that in my view suffered for years from mislabeling. It used to be called “Tokay d’Alsace,” although the wine had nothing in common with the famous Hungarian dessert wine. Also, don’t be put off by the cheaper varietal you may already have tasted. Pinot Gris may be something of an acquired taste, like many good things. Over the years, there has been an evolution in Alsatian wines. We now have more chateau bottling, from tiny enclaves called “clos,” with expense mounting to match the exclusivity. You may find that you enjoy these wines, and some are worth pursuing, particularly the estate-bottled Rieslings. But to start, and get a basic taste of Alsace, stick to generic wines from a good supplier. There are a number of excellent ones, in addition to Hugel. Trimbach is well known and appreciated broadly, for wines that are considered by many a bit more austere than those of Hugel. But Zind-Humbrecht, Domaine Weinbach, Dopff, Lucien Albrecht and Schlumberger are also all fine producers. For me, the great pleasure of Alsatian wines is the simplest one. They are delicious and pleasant tasting. You’ll find as you go along and get to know them better that you’ll develop your own favorites and discoveries. Your Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl from Zind-Humbrecht or Riesling Schlossberg Cuvee Ste. Catherine from Domaine Weinbach, or Hugel Riesling Jubilee (each in the $40-$50 a bottle range) may be your own discovery and standard of excellence. But start off with a Gentil. You’ll be glad you did. Of course, the finest Alsatian dessert wines, such as Hugel’s Vendange Tardive (“VT”) or Selection de Grains Nobles (“SGN”) wines are of world class, like the best Sauternes. But that is another story for another column. If you enjoyed this article, you’ll love our ongoing discussion of French Food and Wine! Join the Bonjour Paris Wine Tasting Chat on April 3rd: Click Here for Details! Bill Shepard learned to love the wines of France when he served as Consul General there. You can read more about his life as a consul in Can the U.S. Embassy Help in a Crisis? Copyright (c) 1999 Paris New Media, L.L.C.
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