Slate is the new Plate

I’ll admit I rarely notice some things; e.g., Colette’s haircut, flowers in the dining room, a new automobile or grandchild, etc., but I blame it all on Deborah Tannen* or my DNA; I’m a guy, and guys are oblivious to the environment.  Now, if I were a real salaried food guy, I’d have to note the décor, napery, flower arrangements, etc., because that’s part of real reviewers’ reviews.  But because, at best, I’m an intermittent reviewer, I can let all this wash over me, unless it hits me in the face like Christian Constant’s new lettering in his revamped Fables de la Fontaine and brand new Cocottes de Christian Constant – that even I can see.  Despite this male blindness, however, I do notice some other things in the food world, especially when they constitute a trend (definitions: something new happens, it’s interesting – it happens more than once, it’s a trend.)  For instance, the years of the millefeuilles, purees and pumpkin soup are burned into my brain.  Well this week I spotted a new one.  Thursday we were eating at Rech, the wonderful new Robuchon place in the 17th, and after main course, one of us ordered cheese.  Quick as a wink, out came a slab of thin slate and the choices of cheese went onto it.  One time, eh, interesting.  The next day we were at the recently moved Au Gourmand, which thankfully does not repeat its 7th Arrondissement conceit of different dishes each day of the week but has a full, normal menu.  We worked our way through firsts and mains, then one of us again ordered a cheese assortment; et voila – a slab of thin slate appeared on which the very finely affinated cheese was installed.  Twice: a trend.  So gentle reader, don’t be surprised to see more slate as the summer progresses.  Because it appears that the word has gone out: slate is the new plate.    *Tannen, D: You Just Don’t Understand, Harper Paper, NY, 1995.  Places mentioned are:  Rech 62, ave des Ternes,17th T: 01.45.72.29.47 Closed Saturday lunch and Sundays A la carte about 50-60 €. Au Gourmand 17, rue Moliere, 1st T: 01.42.96.22.19 Closed Sundays and Mondays Menu-carte 2 dishes = 28, 3 dishes 32, all vegetable menu = 30 € Le Violin d’Ingres 135, rue St-Dominique, 7th (Metro : Ecole Militaire) T : 01.45.55.15.05 Closed Sundays and Mondays Lunch menu 45, 110 € dinner, a la carte 96-100 €.  Les Cocottes de Christian Constant 137, rue St-Dominique, 7th (Metro : Ecole Militaire) No telephone yet but no reservations either Open everyday A la carte about 20-30 €.    ©2007 John A. Talbott