One Sings the Other Does Not

I recently had a meal at Pharamond that was spoiled only by the incredibly inconsistent service.  The décor was stunning, the food classic old-time religion stuff and the wine just right.  So what’s wrong? The Service. Let me give you the roll-out.  I entered with very low expectations.  After all, this is an elephant of restos, established in 1832, not much changed, taken over by someone trained at l’Ami Louis, for gosh sake, so no high hopes here.  But one would expect great service.  I mean, the clientele were all wealthy Parisien men with suits and ties, who ordered magnums of Burgundy and smoked their own cigars.  And one would expect the vol au vent, snails and tripes to be huge and greasy and filling but not particularly memorable  – Guess again. I entered – told to wait a little minute while something was done (there are 3 waiters for 10 customers, for goodness sake) – wait – seated at the primo table by me anyway, by the window, give him that – wait for the menu – long wait – began to think no menu – but then the amuse bouche arrives – strange, an amuse bouche before the menu, OK I’m a foreigner, who knows? – then the bread arrives – superb – especially with the butter – but where’s the menu – ah, there, OK – look it over, decide, ravenous – wait, wait, wait – other tables served, mine sits sadly neglected – stomach rumbling – look outside at young women running thru the drizzle eating baguette sandwiches – not bad – ah, finally order – the wine list maybe – long, indeed the longest wait, indeed forgotten by my designated waiter until another guy sees my restlessness – wine list – ah yes, another long wait for the wine order to be taken.  Well you get the picture.  Now at an even later point the same “other” waiter comes nearby to do something and starts talking and is terrific. So here you have it: one waiter is out to lunch, the other is the most attentive terrific waitperson of the week.  The first keeps apologizing for the waits, his errors and inattentiveness, repeatedly says “at your service” but isn’t – the other just does it. So the question – No, not, do you tip and if so who?  Rather, how do you or real critics judge the service?  By the dork or the demon? Not withstanding the service, I strongly recommend this place, so long as you love old-time food, have no budget and no time constraints.  The bread was spectacular, the veal kidneys with butter or mustard (equally good accompaniments) were as good as I’ve ever had and the wine was just right. Thus my sole recommendation this week is: Pharamond 24, rue de la Grande Truanderie, 1st (Metro: Les Halles, Etienne Marcel) T: 01.40.28.45.18 Closed Sundays and Mondays A la carte 40-80 €. ©2006 John A. Talbott