Father’s Day on rue du Commerce

   836  
Father’s Day on rue du Commerce
In France as in the US, the third Sunday in June is dedicated to fathers. The French day was first introduced by the manufacturer of cigarette lighters, Flaminaire, whose marketing campaign included offering lighters, or ‘briquets’, to Dad as a gift. If you have never been in Paris during this time, and wish to better understand how the French prepare to celebrate Dad’s big day, take a trip the Saturday prior to the rue du Commerce in the 15th arrondissement of Paris. A few years back my husband and I happened to be renting a place nearby and, on this particular weekend, we found ourselves awash in the hubbub and fervor of the French as they shopped for the perfect roasting chicken, the freshest fruits for tarts, the most meaningful gifts. Over the years I’ve heard others comment on the vastness and less than charming feel to the 15th, and for sure, this area doesn’t compare to the shoulder-to-shoulder in your face scene of the Latin Quarter or the spectacular views around the Louvre, Champs-Elysées, or Eiffel Tower.  But, with a little historical appreciation, you may find that seeking out this less touted neighborhood can also lead to a Parisian adventure. In the early 1800s the tract of land that now includes rue du Commerce was part of a general overhaul of the area by real estate moguls Jean-Léonard Violet and Alphonse Letellier, planners in the nearby village of Vaugirard. They lobbied to map a ‘checkerboard’ of streets onto the area, a layout that became the city’s first and most vast, with rue du Commerce square center. In addition to other cross and parallel streets, they added a church, some parks and above all an access way to the Seine to insure the efficient transport of goods coming from elsewhere in the country. In an attempt to lure the average bourgeois home owner, buildings were architected with the sculpted motifs, banners, and cornices that followed the tastes of the era. Over time, this ‘quartier’ competed with newer city sections like the 16th and the ‘grands boulevards’, but nonetheless developed as a commercial center for area residents. At 675 meters long (less than half a mile), the street’s 18 meter (20 yard) width has periodically been a source of worry for area commerçants, who feared that shoppers would opt for larger stores and easier access elsewhere.  However, during urban renovations from 2004-09, city planners again addressed the issue with the idea of maintaining former charm and adding modern day amenities, like wider sidewalks, parking garages, green space, bike stalls and removal of on-street parking.  Pedestrian walkways, another one time worry for businesses, have since proven a plus, lending the street its charm as well as efficiency. So, on this Father’s Day weekend, we found ourselves wandering rue du Commerce, albeit as novices and, well, the unaware tourists that we were, to enjoy the plethora of offerings as well as a mayhem thinly veiled as organized determination, this in order to satisfy dads across the neighborhood. There were perfume boutiques, undergarment shops, clothes vendors, tableware, gift and decoration shops, banks, restaurants and cafés. A fabulous cigar shop with a line out the door likely also offered ‘briquets’ for sale. Sephora had just opened their outlet shop here, too. Open-air market stalls offered a dizzying array of culinary options—cheese, fruits and vegetables, bread, chocolates, regional products and wines, flowers, you name it. At one market, piles of vermillion cherries displayed alongside in season Cavaillon melons and other yellowish red cherries. Inside, bins overflowed with figs, lemons, limes, eggplant, peaches, apricots, peppers, and apples. At one of several butcher shops, lines formed onto the sidewalks for rosy meats or oven-ready farm chickens. An hour wandering this place and we figured one could amass all that would be required to host a fabulous ready-made meal, or to spend hours in the kitchen cooking from scratch. Roast chicken, I’ve been told, is the typical meal of choice on this holiday. We took a break at the celebrated Café du Commerce, at number 51, where from 1921 on the owners have offered reduced-priced yet quality meals. Before saying goodbye to rue du Commerce, we settled on a bench at the Square de la Place du Commerce, to watch folks strolling and playing ‘boules’, and children romping on jungle gyms. The neighborhood is easily accessed via the Métro, with stops at ‘Commerce’ (line 8) or ‘Avenue Emile Zola’ (line 10).  Happy Fête des Pères! http://www.lecafeducommerce.com/   Kathy Comstock is a writer and lover of France.  Her most recent book “‘Vieilles Filles’ and Other Tales from France” includes more details on discovering rue du Commerce.   Paris Shuttle is the leading provider of pre-bookable airport transfers in Paris. Book your airport transfer with Paris-Shuttle.com and save up to 30%. Please post your comments or questions and let them flow. Register HERE to do so if you need a Bonjour Paris user name and password.
  • SUBSCRIBE
  • ALREADY SUBSCRIBED?

More in Cafe, France, French etiquette, French tourism, Monument, Neighborhood, Paris, Shopping

Previous Article Club Sandwich BUZZ
Next Article Frères d’Armes