The Colors and Fragrances of Provence

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When I think of Provence, I think of vivid colors reflecting on azure seas AND the smells of: lavender, home cooking and history. Yes, I think you can smell history and there’s much to sniff out in sunny Provence. The southeast corner of France shifted alligineces for centuries between France and Italy. Now that it’s settled under French rule, there are countless visitors each year to see some of the architectural relics that have been tenderly preserved by the French.   Look closely at the region East of the Rhone and north of the Mediterranean. Start at the Italian frontier and drive west to the Camargue, where Gypsy horsemen on wild white horses and round up bulls on marshy salt flats under an astonishing sun. Here in the region of artists you can follow the routes of Cezanne or Van Gogh. Moliere plied his trade in Pezenas. Picasso is buried near Aix; and Renoir, Leger and Chagall came here to live and paint under a perfect sky.   The Romans founded their first settlements in Provence more than 100 years BC. Their rule here lasted almost to the year 500 AD. From Menton on the Italian border to Orange, the Roman outpost north of Avignon, there are sights to amaze you.   Visit the Fontaine de Vaucluse that spring of fresh water, life-giving for ages. Drive through the Luberon, but read Peter Mayle’s, A YEAR IN PROVENCE before you go. Drive along the coast from Nice to Cannes to St Raphael where the red coast road winds along a crashing sea. Visit the once sleepy little village of St. Tropez an area made famous by French movie stars like Brigitte Bardot. In 1956 the film And God Created Woman, was shot there by her husband, Roger Vadim. This area was also the scene of Allied landings during WW II and the town was heavily bombed. You’d never know if you visited today. This too was the home of the great French painters, Signac and Dufy, who came here for the quality of light.   Spend a day or two in the spectacular and peaceful harbor at Cassis but then head to the western frontier and marvel at the Roman legacy that awaits you with its original charm. Take a boat ride out to the calanques, the narrow inlets of jagged cliffs. Some are over 1300 feet high. The city of Avignon is especially worth a visit. The walled city boasts a bustling central square, Place de L’Horloge, and the immense Palace of 14th century popes or “anti-popes.” There are ten towers that make up an impregnable fortress covering an area of almost 150,000 sq feet, built on one of the oldest sites in southern France. Leading from it one can climb the heights over the Rhone and look down on the famous Pont St-Benezet known popularly as the the Bridge of Avignon. It was made famous by popular song. If you are there in mid-July you can take part in the Avignon Festival. There is opera, ballet, live concerts and street theatre including modern jazz. But don’t plan to cross the bridge; most of it was destroyed by floods in the 17th century. However, (for a price) you can walk out to the tiny Chapelle St-Nicholas, perched on the end. Dancing on this bridge is “the thing to do”.   But for me the main historical sites are the Roman Arch at Orange, the Roman Theatre in the same city, the amphitheatre in Nimes and the unbelievable aqueduct built over 2000 years ago and still standing over the Gard River.   The Triumphal Arch is north of the city of Orange. It is a triple-arched monument completed around 20 AD. It is elaborately decorated with battle scenes and military trophies; a tribute to the Roman Legions who protected the frontier during the time of Rome’s greatness.   The generals and their ladies must have looked splendid in their white and gold togas when they attended the magnificent theatre they built in Orange. It still stands and is still used. The acoustics are almost perfect and we can’t believe how old it is. The backdrop which is still there, boasts a statue of Augustus Caesar, hand raised, greeting the patrons. The theatre is still in operation or you can tour on your own. Louis XIV was to have said that 125 foot by 338 foot wall was “the finest wall in the kingdom”.   From there, head to Nimes, another Roman outpost worth visiting. The Roman Amphitheater is one of the best-preserved monuments in Provence. This 20,000-seat arena is also still used, they stage traditional bullfights there. And, by the way, there’s another preserved theatre just like it in Arles, but the one in Orange is a better example.   Finally, you must see the Pont Du Gard (pont means bridge). That first glimpse from afar will draw you closer. It is the best testimony to Rome’s greatness. At over 156 feet, it was the highest bridge ever built. It is made of enormous blocks of stone that were hauled into place with enormous pulleys by slave laborers. It was in continuous use for almost 500 years, not only to ford the river but to carry water a 31 mile distance from the springs of distant Uzes to the garrison at Nimes. When I first went to visit this ancient aqueduct, one was still able to walk inside the water channel high above the river. Unfortunately, that is no longer possible. The authorities have built a modern hospitality center with washrooms, souvenir stands and restaurants. Ahh, modernity…we can’t stop progress.   Here are some things to consider when traveling to Provence. There are over 2,500 hours of sunlight each year. The light is best in September and October. But with the Mistral winds; blowing down from the north almost half the year you’ll have to select carefully. My rule is to stay away when the crowds are there….
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